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Z's on BAT and other places collection


Zed Head

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Would love some folks thoughts on this.. I don't know much about the "1.5", but it's local to me, California-kept and I've been wanting a '71 for a while.

It's been a while since I looked seriously, so my Z knowledge is fading a bit... but any obvious red flags would be appreciated!

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/la-crescenta-1971-datsun-240z-series-15/7506539433.html

Screen Shot 2022-07-11 at 1.16.28 PM.png

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Looks very original, unmolested.  For example, orig. master cylinder and emissions hardware is there.  Date stamped jack, chocks and spare say a lot in that way as well.  Front most areas of the floors have received impacts of some sort (both sides).  Otherwise, the floors look pretty straight.  Obvious repair to left front fender means damage occurred there.  Could be slight hidden damage behind, but probably not major.  Lots of indicators to me that on the rust "scale" this one is toward the "very little" side.  

Key questions - does original engine come with it - as that impacts value a lot. 

I am restoring a 6/71 with a vin in the 35XXX which is a bit higher than this one.  

 

 

Edited by inline6
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I to got a s30-26xxx from feb '71 (and also called a series1,5..? ) i like these best because it was the first without the (stupid) airvents on the rear hatch.. It was a bad idea to make it there because of the exhaust fumes..

About rust.. if the picture does not show a common spot where rust occurs, get ready to fix that spot! (Often a front fender covers THÉ rustspot of the Datsuns.)

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Thanks for the tips, folks! Much appreciated. I feel very much like a newbie going into the viewing, but will take it slow and have a look around.

- Rust spots (battery tray, hatch lip, behind front fender, etc)
- Original engine (present or not— I don't think it is)
- Ask about damage (both sides front floor, left side fender discoloration and impact)

I am getting a large feeling that if this isn't with the original engine, $25k feels quite high given a few of the other considerations. I know we're in a wild market, but would that be a fair assumption?

Thanks to all again.

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2 hours ago, GoldAir said:

Thanks for the tips, folks! Much appreciated. I feel very much like a newbie going into the viewing, but will take it slow and have a look around.

- Rust spots (battery tray, hatch lip, behind front fender, etc)
- Original engine (present or not— I don't think it is)
- Ask about damage (both sides front floor, left side fender discoloration and impact)

I am getting a large feeling that if this isn't with the original engine, $25k feels quite high given a few of the other considerations. I know we're in a wild market, but would that be a fair assumption?

Thanks to all again.

I see some rot starting on the lower radiator support.

Re:the original engine, the ad states "She is powered by an upgraded L28 engine."  Still worth checking the block number though, just in case the seller is misinformed.  According to this:

http://web.archive.org/web/20131128034951/http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry

the block number should be around 42xxx if it's original.

Edited by BoldUlysses
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55 minutes ago, BoldUlysses said:

I see some rot starting on the lower radiator support.

Re:the original engine, the ad states "She is powered by an upgraded L28 engine."  Still working checking the block number though, just in case the seller is misinformed.  According to this:

http://web.archive.org/web/20131128034951/http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry

the block number should be around 42xxx if it's original.

Just to confirm the logic (sorry for basic questions):

This originally had an L24 engine, but was swapped to an L28 later in life. I'm best served checking the engine block number (which will be behind the A/C drier as this car has it fitted) and make sure that it is, indeed, an L28 as the 42xxx engine block number will align?

One thing I'm confused about... as far as I can tell if the engine was swapped to an L28, wouldn't the engine number be much different to what the sheet (linked above) shows, as the L28 wasn't offered at the time the L24s were manufactured? The 42xxx would likely be the number on the original L24, but it wouldn't be the same on the L28?

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I'm not sure if Nissan was manufacturing the L28 at the same time as the L24 and putting it in other models, but they didn't put it in the S30 until the 280Z.  Per the spreadsheet linked to above, if the block number is in the 42xxx range, it's a good sign that it has the original L24. 

A swapped L28's block number will be much higher (and that's assuming Nissan kept the block numbers sequential that far into the S30's run, which I don't know that they did; others can confirm/deny).

The block number is very easy to find above the A/C compressor / behind the fuel pump.  Make sure you take a rag and flashlight in case there's dirt obscuring the number.

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Here's the link again, below, so people don't have to go back a page to see it.  If the guy is in to the weeds of Series 1, 2, etc. then he probably knows if has an L24 or L28.  Besides the engine serial number, the symbols L24 or L28 are stamped on the block ID plate.

It looks like a pretty nice old yellow 240Z.  Don't get too caught up in originality if you're looking for a car to drive and enjoy.  Many people buy these cars for their collections and never drive them.

Browse the BAT 240Z listings if you want to see what people are paying and what they're getting.  The market decides the price, you just have to decide what it is you want to pay for.  Originality, drivability, cool factor, whatever.  They're all out there.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/la-crescenta-1971-datsun-240z-series-15/7506539433.html

  • Agree 1
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