8 minutes ago, Jeff Berk said:

ZedHead...

Are you suggesting that I find a usable 4 speed and use it to rebuild the worn out 5 speed? Or should I just go with a 4 speed in my 260z? 

Jeff

If the 260Z 4 speed is original it's probably has the wrong part.  12/74 4 speed's would be for 1975 280Z's.

There are 280Z 4 speeds sitting in people's garages around the world, I think.  They come up for sale but never sell, even for cheap.

If you look through the links you'll probably find other parts from the early 4 speeds that will cross over to your 5 speed.  Compare the part numbers.

ZedHead... I'll keep checking the local classified listings as well as attempt to contact the person I purchased the 5-speed from to see what he has laying around. Maybe I'll get lucky. In the mean time, I'm getting a lot of practice taking these things apart.  

I'm not sure how accurate this is since it should be checked but here's what I've found in regards to parts that match up part numbers between 4 Speed-F4W71B (from Sept. 1971) and 5 Speed-F571B (from August 1976).

This suggests that those 4-speed transmissions may be of use if they can be found in good condition.

CrossReference 4 and 5 speed.pdf

Edited February 5, 20214 yr by Jeff Berk

I found a potentially useful FS5W71 rebuilding guide by Derek Garnier that may be of help to me and others:

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1?ddrp=1&hl=en&fbclid=IwAR3SqJySd00J_p1bT2-8yPS_4cSaUGl7jBQ-JcNuYgjk3l0QSo7Rb7gA2D4

Part 1: Volume 11, Issue 2

Part 2: Volume 11, Issue 3

Many of the photographs referenced in the above two articles are missing due to space limitations. A complete set of photographs are located here:

https://datsun510.com/downloads/

look under FS5W71.zip

I'm hopefully picking up a 4-speed on Sunday to part out for rebuilding one of the 5 speeds I have. A local maker space at Case Western University is milling me a right-hand thread, M27x1.0 stake nut. 

Let's see if I can get this working again by Spring thaw.

Edited February 25, 20214 yr by Jeff Berk
Updated links

What is the cost of the milled M27?

I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : (

Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.

I was looking at reusing what I have but a fresh one would be better

I’m having problems getting the components on the main output shaft to line up. The photograph shows from right to left

1) adaptor plate

2) three-prong spacer (hidden)

3) reverse  gear with brass balking ring

4) a pair of needle bearings

5) overdrive gear, and

6) a spacer with a slot for a detent.

I’m assuming the detent needs to go into the hemispherical cutout in the main shaft just in front of the needle bearings. However, when I install the OD gear, the cutout is not visible.

Do I need to move the main shaft further to the left?

Can't remember all of the guys that would know but I think these guys might.  @EuroDat  @zKars @Dave WM  @mayolives There are others.

It still looks pretty nasty.  Interested to see how it works out.

can you elaborate some on the exact issue?  having problems is not enough. is it jamming, not going on at all?

IIRC the 3 prong hub has to mate up correctly.

 

this guy has some good video

 

I think the problem may be that the output shaft needs to be shifted further aft. The detent hole just to the left in the earlier photograph gets covered up by the reverse gear. Should I just try and push against the other end of the shaft (the input shaft end) until the detent hole is visible with the reverse gear installed. The following photograph shows the indent hole being covered by the fifth gear.