Idea for Hood/Bonnet Release

[Wally]

Apparently finding a 240z one of these is almost impossible. I bought one like this

https://www.ebay.com/i/154082623242?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=154082623242&targetid=935065066707&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027875&poi=&campaignid=10455978145&mkgroupid=104612009660&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-935065066707&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-rj9BRCAARIsANB_4ABVTQhdVz8OWxC8AhTcoPeDTnylMx9pWoWTsRy0Ldb6K-qjkLifIb0aAqfCEALw_wcB

Already tested it and it works if you are willing to

1. saw arm button in half like image below. 

2.  weld arm back arm reducing length. 

3. Saw or dremel of about half width of button

4. the bolt holes on this need to be extended. so just drill another hole next to original hole.

Seems like a lot to do but for a 50buck new latch not bad.

[Wally]

oh. i didnt replace the female part from 240... the male part of the B510 hooks up perfect

[zKars]

Great ingenuity. Many of the Datsun family hood latches are very similar.

There are hood latches, out there, you didn’t look in the right place. I have a few 240/260/280 hood latches that are replated real purdy that I’d part with, but it seems you have your solution right there. Nice work

 

[Racer X]

2 hours ago, Wally said:

Apparently finding a 240z one of these is almost impossible. I bought one like this

https://www.ebay.com/i/154082623242?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=154082623242&targetid=935065066707&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027875&poi=&campaignid=10455978145&mkgroupid=104612009660&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-935065066707&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-rj9BRCAARIsANB_4ABVTQhdVz8OWxC8AhTcoPeDTnylMx9pWoWTsRy0Ldb6K-qjkLifIb0aAqfCEALw_wcB

Already tested it and it works if you are willing to

1. saw arm button in half like image below. 

2.  weld arm back arm reducing length. 

3. Saw or dremel of about half width of button

4. the bolt holes on this need to be extended. so just drill another hole next to original hole.

Seems like a lot to do but for a 50buck new latch not bad.

How much did you shorten it by?

[Wally]

overall about an inch is whats needed to clear open and shutting

[Racer X]

23 minutes ago, Wally said:

overall about an inch is whats needed to clear open and shutting

Why not just run the threads a bit farther along the pin with a die, then cut off the excess?

[Captain Obvious]

Racer, I think you're misunderstanding what needed to be cut.

The little grab handle you reach in to unlatch the hood was too long and hit the cowl. He cut the handle off and then re-welded it in a "shorter" position.

At least I think:

[Racer X]

1 minute ago, Captain Obvious said:

Racer, I think you're misunderstanding what needed to be cut.

The little grab handle you reach in to unlatch the hood was too long and hit the cowl. He cut the handle off and then re-welded it in a "shorter" position.

At least I think:

Thanks Captain.

He lost me with arm button.

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! Glad to help. I didn't get it at first either.   

[Wally]

Captain is right. Thanks for clarifying that

[Captain Obvious]

Cool. I know was jumping in and assuming I understood what you were talking about and I'm glad I didn't just make things worse. 

So from the fact that the 510 latch has a longer handle, I'm thinking the 510 latch is mounted further from it's hood edge than the Z's? You need that longer handle so you don't have to reach so far under the lip for your fingers to hit the tab?

[Racer X]

Here is a picture from JDM online that is sold as NOS. 

 

 

Looks like the 510 one could be cut and sectioned in a way the retains the size of the handle. Additionally the handle could be bent like the OEM part, and the lever dipped in that plastic tool handle dip to get the original look.