Are all mustache bar bushings the same?

[Cooper260z]

Quick question. I have a mustache bar that I believe to be for an r200. My car doesn’t have an r200, i have no need for this bar at this time, but I do want the new bushings that this bar has and I’m pretty sure that their the two piece style so they should be able to be pulled out. So the question is, is the diameter of the bushing slot the same as the bar in my stock 260z? (r180)

 

I think they’re the same, I’d just like to confirm before I take the rear end apart (again) that I will be able to put these bushings in the 260z mustache bar. 

[heyitsrama]

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.1102

Those look like energy suspension bushings, it says that they are interchangeable on their website.

For the OEM bushings http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension

Don't forget to inspect/replace the diff strap.  🙂

https://technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

Edited November 17, 2020 by heyitsrama

[EuroDat]

They will fit, but you may want to consider the pros and cons first. If you change to these PU bushing the diff noise will be more noticable in the car. It will also transfer the vibrations in the driveline tothe body a lot more.

The originals are no longer available, so if they are worn and loose, you will need to replace them and these will fit fine.

If you do. Remove the old rubber by heating around the outside of the mustache bar and use a pair of vice grip to twist the centre piece of the original rubber bush. When the heat works its way through, the bush will let go and twist out. You DO NOT need to heat the bar red hot. Don't heat the centre metal tube in the rubber bush. Just keep warming the outside while twisting until the bush lets go of the outer housing. If you do it this way you will have minimum toxic fumes.

[Cooper260z]

Currently the car has a fair amount of noise from the rear end when driving, most notably but not limited to when starting from a stop. Since I have these bushings I was thinking of seeing if that would fix the rear end noise since I don’t have the budget to replace the diff mount and strap yet. 
 

That diff strap alternative (if I’m understanding it correctly) is pretty interesting. I’ll keep that in mind when I’m ready to replace those, thank you 

[heyitsrama]

You might not need to replace those bushings yet, give it an inspection like Eurodat recommended...

If the noise (clunking) is coming during a start, chances are its the diff strap, its ment to catch the diff as it moves upward due to the torque applied to the diff.

There are other options for the diff strap.

1. replace the worn out rubber with something like a nylon tiedown strap

2. DIY your own RT style mount, you'll need some scrap steel, a drill, a disk cutter, and access to a welder, the bushing is generic. Make sure to leave a gap for the fuel lines.

 

 

 

Personally I would consider #2 if you have access to the tools. 2/3 times I've had clunking its been the front diff mount/strap, the other time it was the damn gland nut on the strut tube.

Edited November 17, 2020 by heyitsrama

[heyitsrama]

@Captain Obvious might be have some information for a nylon replacement strap it looks like there is some references in this thread, although the images are missing 😕

 

[Cooper260z]

i like the RT mount but if I was going to make my own then I’d go with the nylon strap, which I never came across in my previous google searches. 
 

Too bad he never got around to sharing the length of the strap that he made. And I wonder how difficult it is to remove the old strap and install a new one without dropping the diff. Clearly it’s doable, though. 

[heyitsrama]

When I was installing my RT mount I decoupled the driveshaft from the diff, loosened the sway bar/diff and moved things over to install. It was a complete pain in the arse IIRC. Might be easier/faster to just drop it.

I think with a strap upgrade it can just be fished through. The nylon should be easier to install than the rubber.

[Zed Head]

13 hours ago, Cooper260z said:

 I’m pretty sure that their the two piece style so they should be able to be pulled out. 

Grab one, twist and pull.  They'll probably slide right out.  No press is required for installation.  It's two bushings and the steel sleeve inside.

I used washers to increase the effective length of the sleeve inside the bushing.  That cut down on noise transfer by creating an air gap on the bushing ends.  I don't think whoever designed the PU bushings really thought through the purpose and the reason for Nissan's original design.  Nissan's design broke the noise transfer path to keep things quiet.  The PU bushings are "racecar" bushings, designed to reduce any movement.  Racecar people like noise.

Many of the PU bushings weren't developed to make things better, they were developed because people would buy them.  "Free market " principles say that those two things go together but reality shows that they often do not.  Soapboxing...

[AK260]

I made my own, I call it the AK Mount ;)




If you are interested in doing the same I will update the thread with the final design of the one in the pics above.

The original design was meant to work with the strap. The final one was much stronger and replace all that strap business ;)


https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-%E2%80%9Cak%E2%80%9D-mount.27293/

[zKars]

I also made my own. It’s called $1.00’s worth of rubber hose.

There is nothing wrong with the OEM design except the strap is too loose or gets stretched with time and allows the diff to lift too far tearing the rubber in the isolator. Just add a rubber spacer to remove the slop.

Yes I should zip tie the hose in place so it doesn’t work it’s way out. So $1.50

Edited November 17, 2020 by zKars

[Zed Head]

48 minutes ago, AK260 said:

I made my own, I call it the AK Mount 😉



If you are interested in doing the same I will update the thread with the final design of the one in the pics above.

The original design was meant to work with the strap. The final one was much stronger and replace all that strap business 😉

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-%E2%80%9Cak%E2%80%9D-mount.27293/

You should post up the dimensions.  Looks like something a person could do with a vise and a drill.  I had to find a friend with a welder for mine.  Cost me a six-pack of good beer.

One thing to be aware of is if the bushing/snubber is pressed too hard in to the top of the diff you can get diff whine in the cabin.  I experimented with straps and clamps early on when I was working on clunk and had some pretty noisy experiences.

Your middle initial isn't C is it?

 

Edited November 17, 2020 by Zed Head
vise vice vices