Are all mustache bar bushings the same?

[Cooper260z]

1 hour ago, AK260 said:

I made my own, I call it the AK Mount 😉




If you are interested in doing the same I will update the thread with the final design of the one in the pics above.

The original design was meant to work with the strap. The final one was much stronger and replace all that strap business 😉


https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-%E2%80%9Cak%E2%80%9D-mount.27293/

Yeah, what zedhead said. Looks simple enough that even I could make it and looks effective. I’ll probably try to make one sometime, I like the idea of replacing the strap with a mount like that. But now is not the time for that, for me. 
 

1 hour ago, zKars said:

I also made my own. It’s called $1.00’s worth of rubber hose.

There is nothing wrong with the OEM design except the strap is too loose or gets stretched with time and allows the diff to lift too far tearing the rubber in the isolator. Just add a rubber spacer to remove the slop.

Yes I should zip tie the hose in place so it doesn’t work it’s way out. So $1.50

however, now is the right time for me to try out cheap diagnosis! So I’ll give this a shot! 

[AK260]

Loving the pipe idea! Simple fix / experiment!

Will defo update the final dimensions and angles.

Basically, it’s exactly what you said - it’s something I made with a vice, a bloody big hammer, a drill and tap and die set. Oh and a bit of paint!

There is a 1-2mm gap between the diff and the snubber but it doesn’t show in the pic. There is no discernible whine from the diff but on full throttle I do notice a little more gear noise if I really try to hear it. There is the option of using a Mini’s rubber suspension bump stop if noise is a concern.



On two very rare occasions a big clonk was heard while hammering it and changing up - here is my hypothesis:

- The insulator is brand new Nissan, so I like to think it’s a good ‘un and not the issue.

- The diff is lifting under load as it should and the diff mount insulator rubber is not being allowed to expand as much as it could / should. So in effect, the AK Mount is storing the energy and returning it to the diff when I change gear at 6.5k rpm, causing the metal parts of the mount to come into contact with each other. With the modified engine and the R200 3.9, there is c. 70% more torque hitting the wheels / diff mount insulator than stock. So there is a heck of a lot of energy being stored and released which the stock diff mount insulator wasn’t designed for.

- Solution? Stick a bit of rubber pipe in the middle of the diff mount insulator and see if it ever happens again !!

How on earth did you figure out my middle initial! Genius! ;) My pin code is next Mr[mention=2635]Zedhead[/mention]!

I apologise to the OP if I’ve taken the thread somewhat off track.

[Jeff Berk]

I've attached a writeup on how to make a front differential mount, unfortunately, I didn't make note of what web site it came from. I'm assuming either HybridZ or this site. I had mine cut on a CNC type machine I had access to up until C-19 hit. The SVG file may or may not be correct. It's used as the source file for creating the part on the CNC.

 

Differential Front Mount.docx differentialFrontMount.svg

Edited November 18, 2020 by Jeff Berk

[Cooper260z]

don’t worry about it @AK260 in a way this is pretty directly related to what I was asking (or at least to the reason why I was asking the question) so it’s all worked out 

[Captain Obvious]

On ‎11‎/‎17‎/‎2020 at 2:01 AM, heyitsrama said:

@Captain Obvious might be have some information for a nylon replacement strap it looks like there is some references in this thread, although the images are missing

I can't believe I never measured the length of that nylon strap. Maybe I did and just wrote it down on a piece of note scrap. I've got a pile of them. 

I've long replaced the blue cheapo nylon strap with a better one with webbing from McMaster. I also upgraded to an adjustable mount on one side so I could adjust for belt stretch, etc. I think I've got my original proof of concept belt in a box somewhere and I'll measure it when I get a chance.

And yes... You can remove and replace the strap relatively easily without dropping the diff or even removing the cross member.