Hi everyone, I’m really wanting to add a/c to my stock 77 280z. Unfortunately the car did not come with it so I’m looking into what my options are for adding it. I can’t find any reviews of people that have added it so I’m not sure where to start. Any advice from anyone that has done this would be very helpful! Thanks y’all!!

 

 

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I think most people look to Vintage Air for aftermarket systems now. Nostalgic AC offers a compressor and mounting bracket they claim works on the Z. They offer similar parts to Vintage Air, but I don't know much about their quality/support.

In the knowledge base there is a nice write-up for AC controls into a 73. The control panel is different, but it should give you some idea of what is entailed. 

 

I think I might look into aquiring the factory parts from a 280z with AC then buy a new dryer, compressor and condenser

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

I think I might look into aquiring the factory parts from a 280z with AC then buy a new dryer, compressor and condenser

The risk with that is winding up with a bad expansion valve. I don't know if anybody has found another expansion valve that will work with the evaporator and fit in the form factor.

Ya, I'm an A/C nut - cuz Phoenix. I've collected about three complete stock A/C assemblies over the years but just like SteveJ says - that expansion valve... It's a doozy.  Most expansion valves just have an inlet and outlet for refrigerant, but the one Nissan used has multiple tube connections to the evap core. To get a simpler expansion valve you need a whole new evap core. The expansion valve CAN be dis-assembled and cleaned/refurbed - but it takes a bit of a wizard to reset the adjustment screw for the orifice if you need to and you'll have a search for the proper o-rings. Having said that, my A/C has been all stock since I got my 260Z back on the road 11 years ago - and it's my daily driver even when it swelters here in Arizona. (Oops, except my Ultra-Heaven duct which increases the airflow from the center vents HUGELY!) (dang, I also forgot my Kia Sportage blower...)

Edited November 21, 20204 yr by cgsheen1

Ya, I'm an A/C nut - cuz Phoenix. I've collected about three complete stock A/C assemblies over the years but just like SteveJ says - that expansion valve... It's a doozy.  Most expansion valves just have an inlet and outlet for refrigerant, but the one Nissan used has multiple tube connections to the evap core. To get a simpler expansion valve you need a whole new evap core. The expansion valve CAN be dis-assembled and cleaned/refurbed - but it takes a bit of a wizard to reset the adjustment screw for the orifice if you need to and you'll have a search for the proper o-rings. Having said that, my A/C has been all stock since I got my 260Z back on the road 11 years ago - and it's my daily driver even when it swelters here in Arizona. (Oops, except my Ultra-Heaven duct which increases the airflow from the center vents HUGELY!) (dang, I also forgot my Kia Sportage blower...)

Hey cgsheen1, so are you selling any of those complete a/c kits?? I think that would be the best option to have all factory parts but shoot this day and age you’ll lucky to even see a z much less find any parts cars.


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I think I might look into aquiring the factory parts from a 280z with AC then buy a new dryer, compressor and condenser

I’ve thought about trying to find all factory components but that’s proving to be easier said than done....one guy told me if I found a z car go buy a lottery ticket .


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My reasoning was I thought there were significant differences in the hvac controls in an AC equipped 280. The expansion valve issue is new to me.

Could you just use all new refrigerant pieces but use the factory controls and ducting?

Frankly I like the units from Nostalgic AC and Vintage Air that combine the evaporator, heater core and defrost. S30 heater cores are NLA. @Captain Obviouswent through an exercise adapting a Ford heater core for his car.  I do not know if the defrost setting on the aftermarket kits engages the AC compressor, but that would be another bonus if it does. That way you use dehumidified air for defrosting/defogging.

you can buy brand new evap with a standard TVX, not cheap (300ish iirc) that is a drop in replacement. I would go with a parallel flow condenser (pick a genereric size that approximates the oe size and rig up some mount hardware) a SD709 and a generic drier, then use the new evap in an OE housing. Using the PF condenser should allow for good use of R134a vs R12. I got my new evap just in case my old one leaks or the tvx ever looses its charge. At that time I would just swap out the evap and stay with R12 since I have a good condenser (was a NOS unit). I prefer the old hitachi SWP types with the sump, they are heavy as a tank but cant argue with longevity (looks OE on mine and runs fine). But the SD709 is prob a better choice if you have the mounting bracket. It prob works better (quiet, light weight), but I always wonder about the quality of stuff like this. I think there maybe some other tweeks if you car did not come with AC as far as making it work, its all covered in the FSM on how to add.

Often see the entire AC system for sale on eBay, a good way to get all the pieces then if the evap is bad just replace it with the new one I mentioned above.

Edited November 23, 20204 yr by Dave WM

Thanks for the info! I gapping I can come across a complete system so I can keep everything looking factory. That’s the biggest concern with aftermarket kits is how does it look on the console ya know what I mean? Hopefully it all works out!


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13 hours ago, Oilking53 said:

Thanks for the info! I gapping I can come across a complete system so I can keep everything looking factory. That’s the biggest concern with aftermarket kits is how does it look on the console ya know what I mean? Hopefully it all works out!


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I know exactly what you mean. I like the way the OE system controls work, I find them easier to deal with that modern stuff to get what you want. Another thing to remember you will need to get the under hood air switches and a idle up servo and the vacuum bottle, hopefully you can score a complete system. You should be prepared to pull the dash even if you go all OE, Its not that hard to do and will give much better access to the workings. If you go after market pulling the dash is a given, but even OE its a good idea. You can service the heater core and valving while its out. IF your dash is cracked you should look into a vintage dashes replacement. A good time to do that as well. The vintage dashes  replacement is an excellent reproduction of the OE, not cheap but if you want it done right its the way to go.

Edited November 24, 20204 yr by Dave WM

I know exactly what you mean. I like the way the OE system controls work, I find them easier to deal with that modern stuff to get what you want. Another thing to remember you will need to get the under hood air switches and a idle up servo and the vacuum bottle, hopefully you can score a complete system. You should be prepared to pull the dash even if you go all OE, Its not that hard to do and will give much better access to the workings. If you go after market pulling the dash is a given, but even OE its a good idea. You can service the heater core and valving while its out. IF your dash is cracked you should look into a vintage dashes replacement. A good time to do that as well. The vintage dashes  replacement is an excellent reproduction of the OE, not cheap but if you want it done right its the way to go.

Thank you for it tips! I really hope I can find a whole package deal for OE. I’ve been trying to find anyone who has a z in a salvage yard but that has been.......not so easy . Thats good advise for the dash luckily my dash is not cracked and the car over all is in really good shape. I’ve got about 41,000 miles on it so far. Just need A/C to complete it, those Texas summers are something else and black on black don’t help .


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