Head gasket leak. Any video tuts?

[Captain Obvious]

  Perfect. I should have known!

[Dave WM]

A few things

do NOT use any kind of abrasive to clean the gasket surfaces. a razor blade on the block would be ok, but I would only use solvents and a plastic razor blade on the alum head, you don't want to scratch or nick it with a steel implement.  the block is cast iron but you still do not want to use an abrasive like a ro loc type attachment.

if no machine work needs to be done the head do NOT remove the cam towers. They would only need to come off if the head has to be machined flat.

chase the block threads.  A proper thread  chasing tap is preferred over a thread cutting tap.

if you reuse the bolts, make sure they are clean with no residue that could effect torque specs.

Only use the washer that are on the head, don't lose them and try to substitute. Also I think they maybe dished inspect when you remove to be sure.

inspect the head for warps, when removing work for the outside to the inside. Use a long precision straight edge designed for this kind of work.

If its warped you will need to find a shop that knows what its doing for L engines. The overhead cam complicates the process.

during reassembly make sure block and head are clean and dry. Install the bolts with oil, but go easy on this, you don't want a flood of oil transferring from the bolt to the freshly cleaned surface/gasket.

follow the torque procedure outlined in the FSM

When all said and done you can use a exhaust leak test that sniff for exhaust gas in the radiator (head leak into coolant passage).  Do a good job of burping the system, test with water, if all good, then use antifreeze.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 2, 2020 by Dave WM