Pertronix = dead car

[korg_geek]

Since I last drove my car, I put in new spark plugs, a Pertronix igniton, Pertronix flame thrower coil and a voltage regulator. THe plug wires are brand-new NGK. Now my car turns over and that's about it. I checked the polarity, tightened all the screws, made sure there were no loose wires, etc. Since the Pertronix coil doesn't have long enough wires, I got some 14 gauge primary wire and some waterproof crimps and added 8 inches of length. I'm not an electrical genius but I think all my connections are sound.

So what could be preventing it starting? Anyone have any thoughts?

[Bambikiller240]

Are you sure that you got all wires at the coil and the ballast resister installed in the correct locations? Double / Triple check them. Is the ballast resistor cracked? or a wire broken at the connector? I found one of those when I installed mine.

It is possible that when you installed the voltage regulator that one or more of the wires going into the plug (connector) broke inside the insulation. I'v seen that happen more than once. I cannnot tell you how to trobleshoot that area as I'm an electrical idiot, but look everything over very carefully.

The Pertronix unit and installation is so simple that if the problem lies there it should be fairly easy to spot.

Good Luck

[korg_geek]

Hmmm, ballast resistor is trickier, since I read that you could just subvert the resistor and not use it. The only idea I got tonight was to hook up the resistor again, so that's what I'm going to try tomorrow morning. I'm pretty sure I installed the ignition correctly... since it involves two screws.... At least I hope I did.

[Bambikiller240]

Yeah, it's tough to mess up the installation of the Pertronix unit. like you say two screws. Just make sure all of the wires are installed on the correct places at the coil and resistor. I don't have my Pertronix instructions with me, but I know that I did use the ballast resistor and haven't had a problem. I believe that it is needed with the Flame-Thrower coil.

PS I love the Pertronix. Much better performance than with the Crane XR700 that I replaced.

[zed240au]

karl you say your new unit is better than the crane xr700 just bought a crane can you tell me the problems with the crane about to replace my old piranha unit with the crane thought it would do the job good.

Mick

[Bambikiller240]

Hi Mick:

I had problems keeping the Crane unit adjusted properly. There is a little arm with a slot in it to adjust the location of the optical unit in relation to the #1 contact on the Distributor cap. It didn't want to stay locked into place. Every month or so, I'd have to adjust it.

Then after about 13-14 months, my car started displaying a very scary tendency to just die while driving. I'd be on the freeway, or in town and suddenly the engine would die, like someone had turned the ignition off. No Power. It would happen about every 20 to 40 minutes of driving time. After pulling over to the side of the road, the car would not start unless I waited about 10 minutes or so, then it would start right up and I could drive for another 20 to 40 minutes befor the engine would die again. The problem turned out to be the Power Transistor built into the Crane "Black box". It was thermal sensitive, and would work until it got too warm, then would stop supplying power to the distributor. When it cooled down, it would work again. The mechanic (a Z expert) that finally tracked down the problem told me that it was a fairly common problem with the XR700. That was enough for me and I junked the Crane and bought a Pertronix. Much simpler installation, it stays aligned properly, and seems to put out stronger performance (engine pulls harder, & to higher RPM) than I had with the Crane.

I've had the Pertronix for over two years now and NO problems at all. BTW, it cost slightly less than what I paid for the Crane too!

Just my opinion, but I'd never go back to a Crane XR700.

[zed240au]

thanks carl think i might just not fit it now and see if i can get one of the other units as you suggest cant be bother fitting it if its not reliable.

Thanks

Mick

[korg_geek]

Well, the good news is that after reconnecting my ballast resistor I have ignition. The bad part is, the engine only runs when the key is held in the start position. I'm assuming I've miswired something, although I thought it was looking pretty snappy.

Is something mis-wired with the ignition switch, so that it doesn't continue firing when its not in the ignition position?

[korg_geek]

Ah, found it. The green/white wire from the run side of the ignition was frayed at the end. Put on new clips and started her up. She hasn't sounded this good in a long, long time. :classic:

[AxtellZ]

Yes, its the BR wiring that causes the car to run only in the "start" position. The bad newz: i can't tell you the correct wiring procedure. I do know that on my 73 a few years back, 1 wire from the BR would wiggle loose occasionaly, when that happened it would only run when at "start".

Try a search of this site about balast resistor, start, etc.. i think there's a few threads that will help you.

Sorry i can't help more, good luck!

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by korg_geek

Ah, found it. The green/white wire from the run side of the ignition was frayed at the end. Put on new clips and started her up. She hasn't sounded this good in a long, long time. :classic:

BINGO! I knew it had to be something simple like that. I found a bad connector (terminal cracked and wiring frayed) in that area on my car when installing the Pertronix.

Oh, the joys of 30 year old wiring! :stupid:

[jaltman]

O.K. I have read and read and remain confused about where to put the red wire on the pertronix unit. I put it in and connected it to the 12v side of the resistor (or so I think). Car wouldn't start. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the BW side of the resistor only has power when the ignition switch is in run and the GW side is 12v in start, but only 6v. in run. What am I missing? Physically, which side of the resistor did y'all attach to? Firewall or headlights?