Has anyone had a good result trying the Wildwood brake master cylinder? I have a 70 240Z with stock brakes and can't locate a Nissan or aftermarket master replacement new or rebuilt for that year. California Datsun is selling a Wildwood unit that has been modified, elongagted mounting holes to fit, adapters to convert lines to metric. It's a larger 1" bore too. Hoping this works and it would be great to hear if someone had good results. Need to buy their flexible lines to the distribution block or bend the old ones as the front and rear on this one is in reverse order to the stock unit.

I think that you mean Wilwood.  People here might have suggestions on where to find one or how to modify another to fit.  California Datsun does not have a good reputation here, in his early days he was known for selling sketchy parts and refusing to make things right when people realized the parts were bad.  

The larger bore will reduce braking power from the pedal. 

Here are links.  You can save money if you do some of the work yourself.

https://www.datsun-garage.com/products/wilwood-1-master-cylinder-upgrade-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx-1967-73-510-and-1973-79-620?variant=31473478729812&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2020-02-05&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign

https://www.californiadatsun.com/master-cylinder/wilwood-brake-master-cylinder.html

https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Tandem Remote Master Cylinder

https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-8794

https://thmotorsports.com/144874-wilwood-260-8794-tandem-master-cylinder-1-bore-w-fixed-reservoirs?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5bz-BRD-ARIsABjT4njPvA1Fp--0aGnyqXF7TuW0zgKyu6UiP1Wc8qknJsY2kQYlw9cRwRoaAqBHEALw_wcB

 

Thanks, yes I meant Wilwood. Sounds like this may not be a great option. One of the guys at Motorsports suggested using a 72 model yr brake master which also have the front and rear in reverse order from the 70.  Still would need to bend lines or buy flexible ones to get to the distribution block. Any thoughts on how well that might work? Thanks!

Edited December 8, 20204 yr by Len70Zcar
fixed wording

Pretty common and easy to rebend lines to fit.  Wait until you get to your rear brake cylinders, guys make the later ones work with a couple of bends.  Motorsport's suggestion seems like a good one.  You can buy prefitted lines cut to a variety of lengths at most auto parts stores  if you need new lines.

If you have to get a brake flaring tool, the one made by titan (51535) works very well with copper lines. I avoided stainless/steel w/plating because I was not able to bend it, let alone get the flare tool to work properly, I think I ruined 3 loaners from autozone trying.

I found getting a spool of the copper line and using the titan tool was easier than finding a premade line that I needed to cut/flare with a rental tool.

 

If he's only doing two lines from the MC?  Already flared and fitted, test the fit of the fittings at the store.  Lots of ways.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/brake-lines---domestic-18110/d3e2edb38fe0

Yeah I guess if there is something that matches the length they need than that would work. I used those premade ones in the past as well, but the length never worked out and I had to cut it anyway.

But yeah I see how buying the tooling can be an overkill to this small problem.

Thanks guys. The 72 wheel cylinders were already used on this one with a minor bending of the hard lines. I was a little more concerned about doing the same to the master cylinder not knowing why they went and reversed the order of front to back on it and if it would work properly slightly rigged this way. For the 72 there are both after market and original Nissan master cylinders available with the Nissan part about 3 times the cost. Any opinions of if its worth the extra cost. perhaps better quality?

6 hours ago, Len70Zcar said:

...as the front and rear on this one [Wilwood] is in reverse order to the stock unit.

Awe #$%@#$^!!!!!!!!  I'm so glad I read this thread!  I just went out and looked at mine and I have that issue also.  I did not even notice this and just finished installing the new booster and Wilwood 1" master cylinder...I'm glad I did not have time to bleed the system yet.  

 

Now I have to decided how I'm going to fix this.  😕 

 

Has anyone had success in tweaking the stock hard lines to reach the correct hole?

I'm sure I've seen this discussed before, but I don't think that it matters which port on the cylinder is fitted to front or back.  If there is room to swap the reservoirs.  The master cylinder is 50:50 distribution on pressure and volume.  You need to be aware of front and back, but only for the reservoirs, not the function.  The front calipers use more fluid.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

45 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I'm sure I've seen this discussed before, but I don't think that it matters which port on the cylinder is fitted to front or back.  If there is room to swap the reservoirs.  The master cylinder is 50:50 distribution on pressure and volume.  You need to be aware of front and back, but only for the reservoirs, not the function.  The front calipers use more fluid.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I would hesitate to say this. You may be correct but I doubt they reconfigured the F & R set up for no reason. Although I am unsure of what it is.

It may be a pressure thing or it may be the front portion of the master gets better pressure if the rear circuit fails in that configuration...

I have had success rebendng these lines. Just be careful and don't get in a hurry. You might want to crack the other end of the line loose and retighten so if you have a problem you know you can get it off the car and replace them

Ok, I've got a question...I got a pair of the '72 or later lines and swapped them out last night.  While swapping them the port on the bottom of the 1" Wilwood master cylinder closest to the rear of the car had a constant drip the entire time I had the lines off while the port closest to the front of the car did not drip at all.  Should I be concerned about this?