Zx 5 speed rebuild

[Patcon]

So Cody's Wagon is getting closer to being whole. We need to rebuild the 5 speed we had in it because 1-2 was baulky and reverse was stubborn.

I believe this is an FS5W71B wide ratio

I am trying to source a reverse idler. May have a lead on that. I have looked at @Dave WM 's thread, @Av8ferg 's thread and one that @EuroDat was in. I will probably use Dave's videos for tear down and build but I need to get all the parts here. I will also use Zkars recent teardown thread. Who did people order parts from? Can I just order a kit that will cover most of the parts I need? Do I need to order the bushing for the rear end (Titan bushing possibly)? I have Chas' parts pdf and exploded view although I wonder how many of those parts are NLA (the list is from 2012) nd I really don't know which are priority parts to replace...

I remember there being one 5spd that had some parts that weren't available, maybe some synchros, black or something. How do I identify that?

Also what should we check before teardown? there was a post by Chas that talked about checking baulk ring to gear clearance but I didn't get it to print very well. Also the rings that the shifter forks ride in appear (to me) to have some pretty significant grooving...

 

[Patcon]

As an aside. I just found out that the MG guys seem to like these transmissions too...

[pogden]

I am going to rebuild my wide ratio FS5W71B, hopefully over the holidays. I bought the rebuild kit from RockAuto (and I confirm what zkars states in his thread: that the kit seems to be the same one sold in other places, and contains Japanese bearings). I bought all the other stuff on EuroDat’s list (seals, main shaft and countershaft nuts, oil gutter, detent balls and springs, ...) from Nissan (Courtesy, I think, but I will check tomorrow if you want).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Edited December 14, 2020 by pogden

[EuroDat]

Hi Charles,

Most important before you strip it down is to check end play on all the gears. You can not check it properly once you dismantle it. The clearance varies per gear, so check the manual for the tolerances. If it exceeds the maximum tolerances, you can fix it by replacing the gears or a machine shop.

The clearance on the baulk rings can be checked after dismantling. They should have a clearance of 1.25 to 1.60mm. If they are getting close to 1.25mm I would consider replacing them. It's one of the clearances that effects the way changing gears feels.

If you do need to replace the baulk rings, I would strongly suggest using the genuine Nissan parts. Yes, I'm sure there are aftermarket units out there that will perform as well, but there are a lot that don't and I can't tell the difference through a simple photo on a website.

The next important thing to giving your transmission that new snappy gear change feeling. Replace the shifting insert springs on both hubs. There are 3 in each synchroniser hub. P/N: 32602-32200

The other springs that should be replaced are the checking springs in the selectors and the return spring behind the return spring plunger.

 

The reverse gear does look pretty shabby, but if you can't find another to replace it you can "repair" it. The most important thing is that the teeth are clean and not chipped.

You can have the reverse gear machined back until the teeth are cleanand bevel the ends. Not cheap, but if you have nothing else it will work fine. The only thing you will notice is your gear stick will travel just a little further before reverse engages. If you need help on this, I can explain further. First choice is try and locate a replacement.

[EuroDat]

Just for clarity, I updated the parts list in the resources sections. I came across an alternative for the shifting insert springs. If you can not find the little springs, some aftermarket companies supply an alternative circlip (set of 2) with p/n: . I think they come from a Chevy transmission, but can't confirm that.

Not sure how they perform compared to the originals, but it is an alternative.

 

[Zed Head]

I sent @Dave WM a reverse gear (can't remember which one) many years ago and he ended up not using it.   Maybe he still has it and it will work for you.

[Patcon]

I ordered the rockauto transmission kit that @zKars found from his research thread. I need to sit down and come up with an order for courtesy nissan. Cody and I will check the tranny sometime this week. Then wait on parts to arrive for disassembly

Which factory manual is correct for this tranny? I am assuming 280zx...

Edited December 14, 2020 by Patcon

[Patcon]

8 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Hi Charles,

Most important before you strip it down is to check end play on all the gears. You can not check it properly once you dismantle it. The clearance varies per gear, so check the manual for the tolerances. If it exceeds the maximum tolerances, you can fix it by replacing the gears or a machine shop.

The clearance on the baulk rings can be checked after dismantling. They should have a clearance of 1.25 to 1.60mm. If they are getting close to 1.25mm I would consider replacing them. It's one of the clearances that effects the way changing gears feels.

If you do need to replace the baulk rings, I would strongly suggest using the genuine Nissan parts. Yes, I'm sure there are aftermarket units out there that will perform as well, but there are a lot that don't and I can't tell the difference through a simple photo on a website.

The next important thing to giving your transmission that new snappy gear change feeling. Replace the shifting insert springs on both hubs. There are 3 in each synchroniser hub. P/N: 32602-32200

The other springs that should be replaced are the checking springs in the selectors and the return spring behind the return spring plunger.

 

The reverse gear does look pretty shabby, but if you can't find another to replace it you can "repair" it. The most important thing is that the teeth are clean and not chipped.

You can have the reverse gear machined back until the teeth are cleanand bevel the ends. Not cheap, but if you have nothing else it will work fine. The only thing you will notice is your gear stick will travel just a little further before reverse engages. If you need help on this, I can explain further. First choice is try and locate a replacement.

Thanks, Chas

I think I follow all of this

6 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Just for clarity, I updated the parts list in the resources sections. I came across an alternative for the shifting insert springs. If you can not find the little springs, some aftermarket companies supply an alternative circlip (set of 2) with p/n: . I think they come from a Chevy transmission, but can't confirm that.

Not sure how they perform compared to the originals, but it is an alternative.

 

Also I was checking some of the parts numbers in the revised list and found the bearings are NLA from Nissan but obviously available elsewhere and the baulk ring for 5th shows as available as "32604-3N21"

My transmission has the metal speedo drive, does that help determine year. Dave WM's had a plastic drive it seems

[EuroDat]

Hi Charles,

Looking at your photos, you have the earlier fibre synchro ring for 5th gear. That part number I quoted is for the later version 71B and 71C in the 300ZX.

You will need the manual for the 280Z 1977. The manual for the 280ZX wide and close ratio has the later type synchro on 5th gear.

 

The part number you will need for 5th gear synchro is P/N: 32361-20100, but it has been NLA for more than 15 years. If 5th didn't have any problems, you should be able to use it again.

The original p/n for the 1st to 4th synchro was 32611-14600, but has long since been replaced by 32604-P0100.

[Patcon]

7 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Hi Charles,

Looking at your photos, you have the earlier fibre synchro ring for 5th gear. That part number I quoted is for the later version 71B and 71C in the 300ZX.

You will need the manual for the 280Z 1977. The manual for the 280ZX wide and close ratio has the later type synchro on 5th gear.

 

The part number you will need for 5th gear synchro is P/N: 32361-20100, but it has been NLA for more than 15 years. If 5th didn't have any problems, you should be able to use it again.

The original p/n for the 1st to 4th synchro was 32611-14600, but has long since been replaced by 32604-P0100.

Thanks Chas

Thats interesting,  I am pretty sure we pulled it from a 280zx. Although it could have been an early one

[Patcon]

I was noticing that the 5th had parts that looked like the Porsche synchro

[Dave WM]

I ended up using the one ZH mentioned that he sent me (on yet another trans rebuild I did). That being said, I doubt those chips will make any real diff, even with the good gear installed its "balky" at times. this is most likey due to design, its a crash box setup. I would recommend you just dress them up a bit, a flat file to take off the sharp edges, but again I don't know if it will matter any.