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I need help with a electrical issue on my 1976 Datsun 280z


76280z

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5 minutes ago, 76280z said:

yes i was using a meter and a test light 

My resister is bad it was reading 0hms 

That's not "bad" for starting.  It means the current will get through.  Infinite ohms would be bad.

It is good that you're taking measurements though.  Post up your numbers so people can see them.

 

We can do this!!  Many engines have been started on this forum, and made to run well!

Edited by Zed Head
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13 minutes ago, 76280z said:

yes i was using a meter and a test light 

My resister is bad it was reading 0hms 

If the meter was reading 0 Ohms when touched across the ballast resister, that means the ballast resister is just a small piece of wire. A bad resister would register as an open line or very high resistance.

Just to be clear, you should be measuring from the black/white wire to the wire going to the positive on the coil.

image.png

Let me be clear on what I asked before. What is the voltage to ground at the positive terminal of the coil when the key is in the ON position?

To go back to one of @Zed Head's posts, did you flush out the old gas and put in new gas? Trying to run the car on 12 year old gas is not a formula for success.

 

Edited by SteveJ
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Ya I flushed all of the fluids. And with the key on the on position I had 0 ohms. I was Looking at some of the wiring and I think the previous owner might have messed up some of the connections so tomorrow I’m going to make sure everything is correct. 

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Um, you still aren't reporting good data. I asked for voltage, and you gave a resistance reading. This is how things should be configured:

1. Connect one lead to coil positive.

20201215_063351.jpg

2. Connect the other lead to ground (strut tower is good for this).

20201215_063342.jpg

It should look like this all together.

20201215_063842.jpg

3. Have the meter on voltage.

20201215_063906.jpg

4. Turn the key on. You should see around 9 volts. I have my ballast resistor jumpered out, so my reading is higher.

20201215_063827.jpg

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So, you have voltage at the coil, though if you are measuring it where I asked, the wiring is not going through the ballast resistor. 

You need to see if the distributor is triggering the transistor ignition unit (TIU) and if the TIU is working. 

Download the factory service manual (link in my signature) for the 76, and look at the EE section, starting with page EE-32. That has the diagnostics you need.

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Those are some cool tools SteveJ.  I need to get some leads like those.  And that meter is the sparsest Fluke I've seen.  Didn't know they made one like that.  I did a search for it and see that it's discontinued.  But I did stumble across another basic Fluke meter that would be a great starting point for anyone, I think.  No amp measuring but very few people use that feature, and on a car you can use voltage drop as a clue.

The Fluke 101.  Appropriate.  And it's small.  Very tempting to get a spare.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B00HE6MIJY/ref=sr_1_9_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=fluke+16+multimeter&qid=1608065034&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-9

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