L20b Cody's Goon

[Patcon]

So we had to rework the end of the oil galleys. The holes we had drilled and tapped weren't big enough for a 3/8 plug. So I found a 9/16 bit; it called for 27/64 and we drilled them again and tapped them. You have to drill them and tap them pretty deep so the plug will go in flush. You can see one of the feed holes in the threading. the plug doesn't actually go in that far. We measured for clearance.

[Patcon]

We worked on the motor some more last weekend

Checked ring gaps

All the studs in

We checked all the clearances with indicators and verified with plastigage

Right now the thrust bearing is pretty tight. I'm not sure we have any clearance. I think we're looking for 0.05 mm. We'll see...

@Captain Obvious

 

[Captain Obvious]

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

the thrust bearing is pretty tight. I'm not sure we have any clearance. I think we're looking for 0.05 mm. 

Hmmm... That's about two thousandths. With the mass of the crankshaft and the ooze of the assembly lube, I don't think you would be able to detect that by hand and eye. You're going to have to use an indicator and a pry bar. If the crank spins free and smooth, you're probably fine.

[Patcon]

It does spin but the fit at the thrust bearing is very snug. I will set up an indicator...

[Patcon]

So we worked on the motor some more today.

We started by checking end play float. We could force 2 thousandths of play be we really had more like 1-1 1/2. So we pulled the crank back out and we checked the thrust bearing thicknesses. I logged all of those down. Then we did some calculating and decided we wanted to add 1 1/2 thousands. So we removed half of that from each side of the bearing plus a little. Tom Monroe calls for using 320 grit paper but I used 600 wet. 320 seemed way too course.

You need to be able to keep track of which side is which. I made a sharpie mark on one side and the oil hole gives a reference point to work from. Each pad is treated as a measured location. We set the shells against each other and wrapped with a couple of turns of electrical tape. We used the granite counter as a flattening plate but a piece of glass would work good too. I made circular motions when sanding and counted revolutions. I did 10 to the side and then mic'd. Then 10 more. It took about 30 to the side to take off 0.00075".

After we reassembled we had 2 thousands that would indicate with no pressure applied. We could force it up near 3 thousands.

While we had the crank out we heated the timing gear in the oven and installed it on the crank.

Then we put rings on the pistons and installed them.

The pistons are 7 thousands proud at TDC. Off my rough calculations we will be about 10.35:1 compression. So we may have to keep the timing down until we upgrade the head and cam. Now we need to get the timing cover cleaned and then work on the rest of it. I couldn't really turn the crank by hand before without the pistons, just the crank. I can now turn the whole assembly, pistons and all by hand. It's tough but doable

Edited August 14, 2022 by Patcon

[Captain Obvious]

14 hours ago, Patcon said:

I couldn't really turn the crank by hand before without the pistons, just the crank. I can now turn the whole assembly, pistons and all by hand. It's tough but doable

Sounds about right. Nice work.

[Patcon]

Cody and I went to EMcCallum's today. He has a vapor honing cabinet he was kind enough to let us use. It is a really interesting thing. It has beads in it but it won't remove paint or paper gaskets but my dry cabinet with beads will.

Before...

After...

We also did the timing cover, spindle and some small thermostat parts. They all turned out really nice

It's also really nice to meet another forum member in person. I always enjoy that...

[EuroDat]

On 8/14/2022 at 2:44 AM, Patcon said:

I couldn't really turn the crank by hand before without the pistons, just the crank. I can now turn the whole assembly, pistons and all by hand. It's tough but doable

Charles, I not sure I'm reading that right. You couldn't realy turn the crank without the pistons and now with the extra resistance (piston rings rubbing the bore) it's doable?

I like your carefull approach to assembly and checking everything thoroughly as you go. Enjoy your rebuild with Cody.

[Patcon]

Yes, that is correct.  After clearancing the thrust bearing I could turn the complete short block by hand

Thanks Chas

Edited September 6, 2022 by Patcon

[EuroDat]

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

Yes, that is correct.  After clearancing the thrust bearing I could turn the complete short block by hand

Thanks Chas

Ok, now I get it. It was dragging on the low clearance in the thrust bearing and after adjusting the clearance it turned freely. Nice work.

[mailnome]

Looking good!

Sorry to bother but I just noticed the sealant for my baffle plate(?) for the valve cover vent is cracking and falling out. I plan on removing it and the brittle sealer.

Is there a preferred sealant to use there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Patcon]

18 minutes ago, mailnome said:

Looking good!

Sorry to bother but I just noticed the sealant for my baffle plate(?) for the valve cover vent is cracking and falling out. I plan on removing it and the brittle sealer.

Is there a preferred sealant to use there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know exactly what I will use there. I will probably lean towards high temp RTV or Black urethane. The black urethane should stick to pretty much anything