A-Type 4 Speed Mounting Position Help!

[zKars]

I find myself in an unusual situation today.

I’m re-assembling a nice post body restoration early VIN 240 and put the engine/trans back in yesterday. 

It doesn’t fit. Well, the transmission mount doesn’t fit.  

The mount is now much wider (by two freaking inches!!!) than the transmission tunnel mount holes thanks to the lunk head that did the floor replacements couple of years ago. (Not me!) They’v even welded the old transmission mount plates on the side of the tunnel in the wrong position longitudinally as the holes are a good 3/4 inch behind the trans isolator mount stud. Custom trans mount here we come.  I can’t even trust they welded the mount plates it back in the right vertical position.

Can someone with an A type 4 speed mounted in a known stock position, that just happens to have the console out and the end of the shifter thingy sticking up, tell me how high the tip of it is above the tunnel sheet metal to give me an idea of where to put the end of the transmission before I build the new mount??   Purdy please.

Here is a picture of where I currently have the trans lifted to. Not suggesting its anything even close. Just to give you an idea of the what to measure. To top of the bushing where the shifter goes in, down to the surrounding tunnel sheet metal, at the back, just cuz it’s closer. 

Thanks

 

Edited December 19, 2020 by zKars

[zKars]

This is what a guy has to do to get by these days. Sheesh.

 

[Patcon]

Will that 2" narrowing cause any other issues?

[zKars]

Not sure. I’m going to be putting the old exhaust system up there today, we’ll see if it still fits. It has no resonator at least, so it shouldn’t be a big deal, but when I replace it with a system that has one, it might be a bit snugger. We’ll see. 

He can probably kiss any hope of a CD009 350Z 6 speed conversion goodbye.Not much chance of that though with this car.

Turned out to be closer to 1.5” narrower between the mount holes. If it weren’t for the 1” front to back offset, I could have just lopped the ends off and redrilled new holes. 

Edited December 20, 2020 by zKars

[zKars]

Gang, I need another measurement, from several of you. Easy to get.

Firewall to the back of the valve cover.

Or firewall to block/adapter plate/front of trans, down by the starter. 

Trying to put the driveshaft back on and its too long, by, wait for it, an inch.......

 

 

[Zed Head]

27 minutes ago, zKars said:

Trying to put the driveshaft back on and its too long, by, wait for it, an inch.......

The early VIN Z's had the set-forward diff, with a different, shorter, propeller shaft.  Could that be the issue?

[zKars]

21 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

The early VIN Z's had the set-forward diff, with a different, shorter, propeller shaft.  Could that be the issue?

I wish it were so simple. All these parts came out of this car, but now the driveshaft is too long. 

Been measuring and comparing to my other Z, and have a buddy with 2, and the verdict is in. The engine is an inch too far back in the car.

The new front frame rails are installed an inch back too far. No big deal, just shorten the drive shaft an inch, and carry on.

Except the wheels are an inch too far back in the wheel wells..... 

 

Edited December 20, 2020 by zKars

[Zed Head]

4 minutes ago, zKars said:

The new front frame rails are installed an inch back too far. No big deal, just shorten the drive shaft an inch, and carry on.

Except the wheels are an inch too far back in the wheel wells..... 

How early is the VIN?  Is the car going to be worth anything with these oddities?  Don't forget the steering gear, which is attached to the wheels.  Good luck!

[Patcon]

This makes PO's wiring hacks sound like a walk in the park!

[zKars]

36 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

How early is the VIN?  Is the car going to be worth anything with these oddities?  Don't forget the steering gear, which is attached to the wheels.  Good luck!

It’s a 4/70. I think a new set of K member holes, a set of extendable T/C rods, and we’re good to go. Don’t really want to cut off and re-attach the T/C pockets. Yuch.

[Zed Head]

The Body chapter has tramming info that might help.

[EuroDat]

Sounds like the guy was focussing on getting the job done, but mist bracing the tranny cross member and positioned the rails too far back.

It certainly left you with some insteresting challenges. That is neat work on solving the transmission mount.

You could shorten the drive shaft and use adjustable tc rods. Have you tried the steering rod to the rack and pinion. Going by all the other problems it will be the next.