zKars Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share #13 Posted December 22, 2020 Okay, not only are Saturn and Jupiter aligned today, but also the suspension, engine and body on this poor little Z. TC rods lengthened, frame rail holes redrilled and K member moved ahead, sway bar mounts shifted, and yes finally the steering shaft fits as it should. Everyone can relax now. Back to regular programming. Nothing to see here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namerow Posted December 23, 2020 Share #14 Posted December 23, 2020 1 hour ago, zKars said: TC rods lengthened, frame rail holes redrilled and K member moved ahead, sway bar mounts shifted Wait a minute. Not so fast. Please explain each point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 23, 2020 Share #15 Posted December 23, 2020 3 hours ago, zKars said: Okay, not only are Saturn and Jupiter aligned today, but also the suspension, engine and body on this poor little Z. TC rods lengthened, frame rail holes redrilled and K member moved ahead, sway bar mounts shifted, and yes finally the steering shaft fits as it should. Everyone can relax now. Back to regular programming. Nothing to see here. Have to agree, this does seem odd. Will this be a major surprise for some future owner? Will the BAT crowd be tearing up the comments area? Can't wait for the new member to show up. "My TC rods look strange..." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #16 Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Oh for heaven’s sake. 1. TC rods will be Techno toy tuning adjustable ones to gain the extra length. I just lengthened a pair of stock one so we can move the car around until the new ones show which might be a while given Xmas and shipping delays. Just cut a pair of stock ones in half and add a 5/8 ID tube welded over with about 2” overlap. 2. Sway bar mount is now a 1/2” thick 1.5x4” bar, with a pair of recessed holes to mount the bar to the stock in-frame captured nuts, then two holes 1” further forward, threaded, to accept the sway bar U-clamps in their new position. 3. Drill one new hole in the frame rail 1” forward of the rear existing hole, and drill one new hole in the K member 1” BACK of it’s front hole. Drill matching holes in the two re-enforcing plates top and bottom, actually shorten the top one by 1” since its that skinny thing. Re-apply K member to frame rail with stock bolts in new holes. New bolts are 1” closer together, K member is 1” forward. Fill abandoned rear frame rail hole with bubble gum. Juicy Fruit of course. 4. Re-insert engine and put the drive shaft, that how fits, back on. Done. 5. No wait. My fancy shortened/offset trans mount is now all wrong, get his original one and just cut a bit off the ends to get it fit in the skinnier tunnel, and drill two new holes closer together to fit the mount holes. Now done. Yes the next owner will have questions, but the current owner is likely to keep it for another 30 years. He is happy to have Caster adjustment he didn’t have before. Edited December 23, 2020 by zKars 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcv Posted February 12, 2021 Share #17 Posted February 12, 2021 Did you get the measurements you need? I’ve got an 11/70 and I’m happy to break out the tape measure this weekend if you’re still in need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted February 12, 2021 Author Share #18 Posted February 12, 2021 3 hours ago, rcv said: Did you get the measurements you need? I’ve got an 11/70 and I’m happy to break out the tape measure this weekend if you’re still in need. Yes thank you, all sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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