280zdude Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #25 Posted December 23, 2020 The internal resistance of the coil is 11.2 at 200k ohm setting in the multimeter. Primary is .06 on 200 ohm setting.. soo I’m guessing that’s a very bad sign lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #26 Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Car does not turn over anymore after switching the cables. the red and white wires are no longer getting any voltage either on ignition switch nor on the relay the black and white on the relay is no longer getting voltage either Edited December 23, 2020 by 280zdude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted December 23, 2020 Share #27 Posted December 23, 2020 Did you run the test I asked you to run before swapping the cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 23, 2020 Share #28 Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) 31 minutes ago, 280zdude said: Car does not turn over anymore after switching the cables. the red and white wires are no longer getting any voltage either on ignition switch nor on the relay the black and white on the relay is no longer getting voltage either Check the wires at the starter. The power supply wire to the car uses the starter lug as a connection point to the fusible links which lead to the ignition switch. Check the fusible links also, it's common for them to have a poor connections at the terminal block. Plus, since your battery was connected backward, some of them might be burnt. Basically, you need to use your meter to follow the path and confirm continuity to the right areas. It won't be easy, sounds like you had a mess when you started. Battery > starter lug > fusible links > electrical components. There's something not quite right with that wiring diagram I had here. Deleted it. 1976 makes more sense and should be the same. Shows lights, etc. fed from main link and battery. Edited December 23, 2020 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #29 Posted December 23, 2020 55 minutes ago, SteveJ said: Did you run the test I asked you to run before swapping the cables? Yes I did, the battery to body is getting positive 12 volts. Working on the starter wiring I have a hunch that was switch around as well but looking into it rn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #30 Posted December 23, 2020 http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf This is the wiring diagram I have been using for 1977 280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted December 23, 2020 Share #31 Posted December 23, 2020 8 minutes ago, 280zdude said: Yes I did, the battery to body is getting positive 12 volts. Working on the starter wiring I have a hunch that was switch around as well but looking into it rn. Unfortunately you could be right. It's awful when someone starts "fixing" the wiring without knowing how to read a wiring diagram. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #32 Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Good news I cleaned all the connections to the starter I first checked the voltage to the starter and was getting 0 to maybe 9 volts. checked the wires and connected to the starter one probe on the battery and the other on this wire. And saw low voltage cleaning them made the voltage go to 12.45. I took off each wire used some pb blaster and cleaned the mating surfaces, bolts, and washers. now I’ll be looking into why the coil resistor is not getting any power. Edited December 23, 2020 by 280zdude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 23, 2020 Share #33 Posted December 23, 2020 54 minutes ago, 280zdude said: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf This is the wiring diagram I have been using for 1977 280z I figured out what they did. They just didn't use very big marks to show the connections. So tiny. You'll find that 77 is kind of a transition year for several things, and for whatever reason many of the documents out there are incomplete or are actually 1976 documents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share #34 Posted December 23, 2020 1 minute ago, Zed Head said: I figured out what they did. They just didn't use very big marks to show the connections. So tiny. You'll find that 77 is kind of a transition year for several things, and for whatever reason many of the documents out there are incomplete or are actually 1976 documents. Can you explain more about what you mean? I didn’t get it with the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 23, 2020 Share #35 Posted December 23, 2020 2 hours ago, 280zdude said: The car actually came with the original battery flipped from Nissan lol I guess the dealer who installed it messed it up... I’m the second owner of the car That might be a collector's item. Hang on to it. Is it really from 1977? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 23, 2020 Share #36 Posted December 23, 2020 6 minutes ago, 280zdude said: Can you explain more about what you mean? I didn’t get it with the pic. Just be careful with what you find on the internet. Members have been collecting what they can and uploading it here but I've found mislabeled material around the internet. As for 1977, 77 was the first year of the new door style. And the raised deck in the back with the space saver tire. There are also some odd cylinder heads out there too, apparently. It's a change year. My picture was just showing why I thought the diagram was wrong. I just couldn't see the connections. It should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parman
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