No Spark issue. Negative voltage on ignition switch.

[280zdude]

Hey zed head Yeah I was going to do that! But I was checking the wiring First and I’m getting like 0 voltage to through the wires 

[280zdude]

29 minutes ago, 280zdude said:

Hey zed head Yeah I was going to do that! But I was checking the wiring First and I’m getting like 0 voltage to through the wires 

Ok so just to make sure the s wire is the smaller wire which connects to the starter correct 

[Yarb]

Have you  tried to connect 12volts directly to the pump with a known good ground circuit. Just to remove that variable. Identify the pump is at least running. Doesn’t mean it’s a good/functional pump but you at least know it’s not locked up/frozen.

[280zdude]

Yes that’s what I was going to do next.. I’m a little confused by the wiring and how it works. Different forms have different answers to the issue. Anyways I took the s cable off left the battery cable on and flipped the switch did not hear anything. It seems like I have a bad fuel pump.. it actually looks like it’s the original from factory. 

 

I tested the cables while the car is turning over and it gets 12 volts. 

 

Little fact Idk if people know this but, there are connectors button connectors that are behind the passenger seat which go through a grommet. The colors are (green and blue) and black. Those are the wire that connect to the fuel pump. It gives you easy access to test wiring while inside the car. 

 

I’ll be be basically jumping the fuel pump now to see if it works or make any sound. 
 

 Just in case it does, should I start the car or try to start the car with a possibility of ignition timing and valve timing being off? 

[280zdude]

Confirmed bad fuel pump connected two jumper cables to the fuel pump to see if it goes off nothing happened fuel pump did not make any sounds. Positive to the bottom terminal and negative to the one on the side. 
 

I will order a fuel pump and get back to you guys when I install it. 
 

I appreciate everyone’s help! 

[Yarb]

Can you give us a better idea on how you isolated the pump wiring in order to test tje pump.

[280zdude]

I connected jumper cables to the batter then went under the car and connected the jumper cables to the positive and negative terminals on the pump. 

 

There was a little sparking but no sound 

Edited December 28, 2020 by 280zdude

[Yarb]

Not sure how to answer this. Did you isolate the connections on the pump. Meaning it’s not a good idea IMO to just throw power to the circuit without isolating the component being tested.

[280zdude]

2 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Not sure how to answer this. Did you isolate the connections on the pump. Meaning it’s not a good idea IMO to just throw power to the circuit without isolating the component being tested.

Oh yes nothing was connected

[280zdude]

Doing a lot of research for the 280z fuel pump.

any suggestions

this is what I found-

Walbro 255/ Walbro 393 $$

OEM REMANUFACTURED - but may have to be switched out a couple times before you find one that works well. $$$

Almost any Bosch fuel pump $$

dephine @ the auto parts store $ 

Carter - Rockauto.com $ 

MSD - 2225 $$

brand new oem- $$$

Acdelco - unsure of part number

complains about the after market is that they are loud. Suggestions to fix this is by using rubber isolators.

General consensus is that Bosch is the best flowing compared to the others. 
 

Some people say aftermarket is trash. Others have had them for years. Some use them as back ups until they find a good oem or rebuild the one that have. 
 

Good amount of people swear by MSD. Only complaint is that it’s loud. 
 

did my research on how loud these aftermarket pumps are with the rubber isolators. They are about 70 dbs.. if you mount them straight to the chassis  it echos through the metal in the car. 
 

Does anyone have any personal suggestions for a fuel pump? 

[Zed Head]

I used an Airtex E8312 for about 30,000 miles with no issues.  Typical rubber mounting, quiet, lasted.  It was $99 when I bought it but now they're cheaper on Rockauto and Amazon.  But OReilly sells a different brand now.  I think a lot of these pumps are actually the same pump, with a different seller.  Look at the pictures.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=AIRTEX+E8312&qid=1609186230&sr=8-1

[280zdude]

30 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I used an Airtex E8312 for about 30,000 miles with no issues.  Typical rubber mounting, quiet, lasted.  It was $99 when I bought it but now they're cheaper on Rockauto and Amazon.  But OReilly sells a different brand now.  I think a lot of these pumps are actually the same pump, with a different seller.  Look at the pictures.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=AIRTEX+E8312&qid=1609186230&sr=8-1

True, I’m just thinking of getting delphine because autozone carries it. And maybe the other higher pressure pumps if I decide to build the head after it gets running. Do I spend money now get it running spend more later or get nicer parts.. 

I might just go with Airtex/carter.. with a pre-pump fuel filter  fram g3