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No Spark issue. Negative voltage on ignition switch.


280zdude

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Put a hose in the top and see how fast it drains out the bottom.  That will be a clue.  It should flow a lot of water through the cooling channels.  There are still radiator shops out there that can boil them out and pressure check them if it's slow.

I messed around with my bad radiator for a couple of years.  The $120 I spent on the Murray cheapo was well worth it.

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Thanks I did that. I vacuumed out whatever I could from the top before doing it just to make sure I don’t push rust in than I need to.. 

I’ll probably use some coolant flush tomorrow. And let it sit in there for about a week or two.. cant really drive it for now..

im doing research on head work and flat top pistons.. I was thinking about going full stroker but the LD28 crank is just no where to be found but in fully built engines.. from rebello racing and shops of that nature. 
 

After the flush sits for however long I decide to leave it in maybe watch for a color change.. I’ll take the head off and assess the pistons and the walls.. 

plan to take the pistons out and honing the walls.. new flat top pistons and rings 

racing cams Idk anything about this.. but I’ll learn.. no one really talks about where to get these.. machined cams?? Idk 

and get the head shaved and ported for better flow.. 

I’ll probably leave the crank alone and just do a diy little polishing there.. 

Engine management - I read that you need a stand alone system in order or the stock efi does not like the top mods. I’m going to stay EFI unless. There is a really good reason not to. I really want to try to keep the car as stock as possible with decent present day power.. mega squirt/msa pro something like that was the standalone management system.. 

proper dialed in tune.. 


let me know if you guys have any suggestions on this stuff. I’m in Southern California so if you have a shop you would recommend or a professional I can get advice from I would appreciate it! 

with all this I’m guessing the car will run around 200+ hp.. I don’t believe it will be under whelming with the weight of the car. I’m hoping it will be around the same as my 2017 q60 in regards to butt dyno torque in a straight line.. 

 

Edited by 280zdude
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There are sources for the V07 crank but they're not cheap at this point. Be prepared head work is very expensive but provides the greatest improvement in these engines. The factory EFI will not adapt to hardly any engine mods. Aftermarket would be required.

Do you have to pass SMOG?

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

There are sources for the V07 crank but they're not cheap at this point. Be prepared head work is very expensive but provides the greatest improvement in these engines. The factory EFI will not adapt to hardly any engine mods. Aftermarket would be required.

Do you have to pass SMOG?

I’m probably not doing the full 3l stroker it sounds really cool to say but doesn’t make Sense for power to price ratio.. head work should suffice with relative power.. I guess the reason people do carbs is so they don’t need a computer.. 


I do but there are ways around that 😬

Edited by 280zdude
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7 hours ago, 280zdude said:

I’m probably not doing the full 3l stroker it sounds really cool to say but doesn’t make Sense for power to price ratio.. head work should suffice with relative power.. I guess the reason people do carbs is so they don’t need a computer.. 


I do but there are ways around that 😬

Yes, there are but it can make it more difficult if you need to pass the visual inspection. If you have an inside track, then no worries.

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On 1/9/2021 at 3:18 PM, Zed Head said:

It's difficult.  Get some picks, a small screwdriver, a little piece of wire.  I think that anyone who has done a few has developed their own special method.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Pick And Hook

image.png

Yeah I ended up ordering new clips for almost everything in the engine bay.. they are really brital.. I’ll used those as well and it still broke 

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