On 1/15/2021 at 7:25 PM, Yarb said:

Coolant line Runs over top of the intake to a plate under the air bypass valve. Loops back to the coolant system.

Where can I get one no one seems to know what it is msa motorsports said they don’t have it 

I’d post it up to the forum for advice. I’m in a warm climate and removed it from the system to clean up the intake. So your probably missing the steel water line that runs in front of the timing cover down to the lower radiator water inlet on the RH side of the engine as well. The FSM will help you identify the system components.

He has a 77 so that is actually the fitting for the coolant line to the plate under the AAR.

Looks like #52 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/52

Probably hard to find.  Many of the threads on the engine are BSPT.  Might be able to get an adapter and use an NPT elbow.  Or people have had success just jamming NPT in to BSPT holes.  Risky.

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings/brass-and-bronze-pipe-and-pipe-fittings/type~adapter/thread-type~bspt/

Browse...https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings

Or - @Terrapin Z

 

My mistake called it “air bypass” instead of “aar”.  Plugged it with brass fitting NPT I believe 1/4”.

Edited January 15, 20214 yr by Yarb
Miss quote

Did you need to use any teflon any leaks? 

I used the socket type npt plug with Teflon. Don’t go crazy on the torque!

  On 1/15/2021 at 8:30 PM, Zed Head said:

Looks like #52 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/52

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings/brass-and-bronze-pipe-and-pipe-fittings/type~adapter/thread-type~bspt/

Browse...https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings

Or - @Terrapin Z

 

Sounds like you are going the plug route. I know I have the water tube around the head, and might very well have the elbow too. If you decide to go back to that set up.

 

  On 1/16/2021 at 1:11 AM, Terrapin Z said:

Sounds like you are going the plug route. I know I have the water tube around the head, and might very well have the elbow too. If you decide to go back to that set up.

 

I actually wasn’t planning on it I went out and bought a tap and die set and was thinking to tap 1/4 and get a brass elbow at the homedepot or something.. 

I am happy to see if I have the parts. However I am out of (my) state of residence currently and wont be home for a couple weeks. 

I don't know if that will work with your timeline. 

Are you trying to restore it back to the factory configuration?

You need the plate under the AAR if you want things to work well.  The coolant heats up the plate which keeps the AAR closed when the engine warms up.  It's kind of contorted and a pain to get the lines in there and sealed well but it serves a useful function. 

The aluminum T-stat housing should be easy to tap.  Probably don't even need to drill, just run the tap.  

Yes to oe configuration. One thing I’ve realized is even if you think you don’t need something on the car.. there’s a reason why they added it in the first place, that one off chance a car doesn’t start may be due to a simple delete of a random water heater line.. don’t see the harm in keeping it.. 

But if i don’t want it to leak so that’s is why I’ll be tapping it just to make sure I put it on and the car heats up and leaves water marks on a freshly cleaned intake.

only time I would delete something is if I go full stand alone, smarter computer basically does what these mechanical parts do. I was debating on that but decided to just stick with og for a while make it run right see if I need more fixed before throwing money at stuff that doesn’t need to be replaced or upgraded right away.