280zdude Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share #97 Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) So I got this far.. did the noid test and the fuel pressure test.. I read your take on the gas coming out of the intake which is happening. I triple checked the timing wires but the ignition on the distributor was in the middle so I moved it to the top position. and all that shine stuff is gas coming out of the intake. yup the cold air valve is stuck open. IMG_8846.MP4 Edited January 5, 2021 by 280zdude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted January 5, 2021 Share #98 Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Cold start valve. You can just pull the line and plug it with a bolt and a hose clamp if you think it's stuck open. Find a good bolt and a good clamp and don't leave it long, it's under pressure. Your timing sounds like it might be retarded, The engine spins really freely. I've found that Nissan put marks on the distributor and adjustment plate, probably for manufacturing assembly, that will get timing close. Two lines. Line them up and see if it starts more normally. That is a lot of fuel though. I'd block that CSV before you burn things down/up. Plus, if you had an air filter in there it was probably soaked and blocking air flow. Edited January 5, 2021 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share #99 Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Thanks zedhead it worked! I really appreciate the help guys! im doing research on why the engine is not going over 2500 rpm.. it seems like the pre pump filter is too big and air is getting into the system from there.. when the car is running the filter looks empty with bubbles.. And the gas coming from the tank is like a little stream like when a siphon is almost empty.. I’m got a knock off microgaurd filter instead of the fram g3 .. but the gas is really clean no rust in the filter for now.. fuel pressure is at 32 psi. Noid light test passed for signal. jugding by the cold start valve I’m guessing the fuel injectors are just as bad. I took each connector off and found green corrosion cleaned all that. played with idle control the engine purse! Super quiet. Fuel pump is loud now at first it wasn’t. I’m guessing it’s the pre pump filter not allowing enough fuel. I also replaced every single one of the fuses. This helped a lot with the electrical, when flipping the switch the interior lights turned on brighter. For the seat belt and what not. Still waiting in the clutch master and slave also. none of the gauges such as oil pressure, voltage, and fuel are working also. But rpm does! Edited January 5, 2021 by 280zdude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted January 5, 2021 Share #100 Posted January 5, 2021 Might be that the prefilter is already clogged, if the tank has crud in it. Make sure the AFM vane is opening like it should. Also, even though the engine started your timing could still be retarded. Difficulty building revs is typical of retarded timing. You need a timing light. You're at the small steps stage now. A bunch of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #101 Posted January 7, 2021 Took the radiator out cause it looked super dry on the inside and rusted found this.. what the hell do you do for this... It was blowing white smoke while the car was running for a little bit IMG_8870.MP4 IMG_8873.MP4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted January 7, 2021 Share #102 Posted January 7, 2021 Not sure what format you pasted there but those videos have no visuals on my computer. A picture might be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #103 Posted January 7, 2021 Oh they were from my iPhone here are some screen shots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted January 7, 2021 Share #104 Posted January 7, 2021 I bought one of these but it looks like the price has gone up by about 100. Spendy. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-heat-transfer-4283/cooling---heating-16773/radiator-20386/radiator-11357/02ac48565f9e/murray-heat-transfer-radiator/433634/4459519/1976/nissan/280z?q=radiator&pos=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #105 Posted January 7, 2021 That’s in the engine block not the radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #106 Posted January 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, 280zdude said: That’s in the engine block not the radiator That’s all rust and old coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted January 7, 2021 Share #107 Posted January 7, 2021 I would say rust and no coolant. Thats what happens when you dont run coolant which has corrosion inhibitors. Clean it out and run it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zdude Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #108 Posted January 7, 2021 2 minutes ago, Patcon said: I would say rust and no coolant. Thats what happens when you dont run coolant which has corrosion inhibitors. Clean it out and run it Yeah I’m just scared the water channels are clogged.. just took the radiator out and it’ only flows when tilted but still not well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parman
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