It's time for new bearings.

Time to get a slide hammer and possibly an air hammer. On the passenger side of my 260Z, I was working the slide hammer while my friend was getting the other side with an air hammer. It finally cooperated.

Oh, and I suggest not using the 280Z for a long distance drive again until after it has been addressed.

copy that guys, I ordered parts (Nissan OE). So that was pretty bad right?

43210-E4100 inner or outer

43215-E4100 inner or outer

43232-E4100 Seal

43262-21000 (nut)

 

 

Edited January 14, 20214 yr by Dave WM

I am hoping I don't have to fight it too much, this car has very little rust, most of the time things come off without too much of a fight.

Yeah, that doesn't sound good. I don't think I would toss up as much of an urgent "don't go on any long trips" as SteveJ did, but you should get to that in the near future.

Many people (including myself) have switched over to the ZX style nuts for the stub axles. Photo courtesy of Blue:

7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Yeah, that doesn't sound good. I don't think I would toss up as much of an urgent "don't go on any long trips" as SteveJ did, but you should get to that in the near future.

Many people (including myself) have switched over to the ZX style nuts for the stub axles. Photo courtesy of Blue:

Is there any change in the fitment process, are the final torque figures the same as 240 or 280zx FSM?

As for the fitment, the only change I can come up with is that you don't need to stake those ZX nuts after installation. The prevailing torque distorted threads do that for you.

As for the torque, I'm no expert, but I would just torque them to the same torque as the original spec for the Z. You would lose a tiny bit of the torque number due to the friction of the distorted threads, but I bet it's such a small percentage of the total that it wouldn't be significant.

I've got a ZX manual around here somewhere. When I get a chance, I'll dig up the torque spec they used in there.

Thanks ,good tips.

For the record my 73 240z FSM shows "rear axle bearing lock nut" at 181-239 ft-lb

I just checked the 83 manual and the torque numbers are the same.  181-239 ft-lb

That said... I bet @Dave WM uses the old style nut. I think he hates change even more than I do.  

Don't overlook that the torque range is wide (probably) because it's an adjustment range.  Torque to the minimum number then measure end play and preload.  If it's not right go a little tighter.  If you get all the way to 239 and things still aren't right there's probably a problem.

removed the old 27mm nut. I did NOT uncaulk it per fsm term I presume for stake) I seemed like  a pita to do and I tend to go with the FSM recommendations.

my technique was to use a 1/2 breaker bar on the nut, with the wheel back on the hub lower the car off the jackstands and roll it backwards. the break bar jambs into the control arm, locking the nut, rolling backwards unscrewed the hub threads. works great. I check the thread by seeing if I could re attach the nut, no problem. The treaded part of the thinned nut where the stake is just bent open.

So now I await the arrival of the slide hammer from mr amazon.

The plan is to install the bearing into the hub pressing on the outer races with some sockets and all thread to do the pulling. this is after applying grease to the areas per the FSM (the sealed outer bearing from Nissan already had some grease there but I would like to have a bit more.

I will make sure I don't over pack the center section and make sure the inner race are clear of grease so as to not cause any possible hydro lock (if possible doubt it) when the entire assembly is preloaded back with the nut. then the new seal.

To install the axle the plan is to put it in the freezer overnight, put a 100 watt light bulb near the hub (but not so hot as to have melted grease get everywhere just enough to heat up the bearings to about 90f, hopefully that will allow for a light slip fit of the axle into the bearings.

The FSM was not real helpful on the assembly just reverse the removal. if I followed that literally it showed the outer bearing installed on the axle shaft (guess it stays on during removal).

reversal would be to press on the outer bearing inner race on to the stub axle then insert the stub axle/bearing into the hub. I don't know how to do without pressing on the inner race to press into the hub, that would stress the balls and races.

So hopefully my process of installing bearing in hub the axle slip into bears will work.