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Wheel bearing noise


Dave WM

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well  that turned into a cluster REAL FAST. the issue as the dang grease seal. it was not coming out, normally I can pop them out with out resorting to a "seal puller tool" guess I was wrong about that. anyway I was beginning to question the whole idea of trying to do this on my back so I went ahead and pulled the spindle pin and removed the entire strut assembly. I was finally able to get the seal out with a slide hammer and drywall screw after several attempts. from there. I stub axle was removed before pulling the strut with a slide hammer, a couple good wacks and it was out.

I drove out the inner bearing using the cast in notches in the housing, a bearing puller was used on the outer bearing (it stayed with the stub axle). Since I had the strut out I used the press to install the bearings and new grease seal after lubing up all the needed spots.  So now the stub axle with no bearings on it is in the freezer for the night. the 100 watt bulb is gently heating up the housing, I will check on it later to maker sure its not cooking out the grease by getting too hot.

if all goes well I will hopefully drop in the stub axle, at least far in enough to get a shot at fitting the splines of the companion flange lined up. From there I will press on the companion flange and the outer side of the hub where the wheel studs are installed. if it does not get that far I will just have to hunt up some pipe that will let me press on the inner race of the inner bearing until I can get enough of the shaft thru the bearings to engage the companion flange. I am trying to make sure that the pressure to pull the axle shaft into preload position is all done with out any pressure to the balls or races of the bearing.

 

Edited by Dave WM
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I will post up some video of the old bearing later, it does make some odd noises like a vibration when spun (still has the old grease in it, I know better to spin a dry bearing).

the stub axle went in as well as could be hope for. all night in the freezer, then a space heater on the hub (not too hot of course, prob about 110f), it dropped right thru the 1st bearing and with some light hand pressure it popped thru the second. So now on to tighten up process I will reinstall the tire and with the flat on the ground will use the new torque wrench to factory spec.

After that I will be on familiar ground (reinstall the assembled strut). The other side I think I will just start with the strut removal.

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its all back together, MUCH quieter, posting up a video now. will have to see if any miles on it effect things but right now there is NO noise and NO slop (top bottom shake) at all. Very pleased with the outcome, but the garage is a disaster zone. I always seem to have way more tools out laying around than I need. Guess that is the sign of diy vs a pro on general repair. I backed the car out so I can do a compete cleanup. Part of the issue is the way I have things stash in place due to limited room. I would like to think if I had a bigger shop with roll around tool chest ect.. it would not get so out of hand.

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Seconded. Nice work.

So I once went through all the gyrations to never put force through the bearing balls to put everything together. Then I discovered that I had way overgreased the cavity and had to take it apart again anyway to pull most of the grease out. And there just isn't any way to take that thing apart without putting force through the balls.

In the end, I decided that they had designed it such that there was a mild press fit to get things together and it was designed such that the amount of force required to press the stub into place isn't enough to damage the bearings. So I just started doing it the way the manual says to do it. You know... The easy way.

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it went pretty easy but for the seal. I may try the other side with the strut in place IF I can get that darn seal out. The frozen axle went in easy, prob a indication of how mild the press fit really is.

the biggest expense on tools was the 250lb torque wrench, I was fully prepared to tighten to a MF'r tight, but opted to go for a more precise way. I will be using it again when I pull the damper off to get the timing cover off to address the persistent coolant leak, so needed it anyway. It also makes torque the wheel nuts easier. larger handle and better feel.

New bearings coming for the other side so will get to it in a week or so depending on work (busy time).

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Before replacement I had a whine that sorta sounded kinda like a diff whine coming from that location but did not change as power was applied just seemed to follow speed. (I could hear it and when turned my ear towards the right rear it was louder). this is what got me to looking at it in the 1st place, that and the age, just thinking about 45 year old grease had me worried. The whine was not very loud, but it was noticeable.

Todays test ride had no whine anymore, so maybe I hit the cause with the bearing replacement.

Edited by Dave WM
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