I'm using my phone so I can't be too clear but here's most of the p/n you need from different suppliers. 

I would get a differential mount also if you're doing a restoration.

https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+differential+mount&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjy3eHx3MbuAhXoUN8KHfPrC7YQ_AUoAnoECAYQAg&biw=320&bih=449&dpr=2.25#imgrc=5cRliSweU1r-CM&imgdii=suUSR6q4KPkj4M

34 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

You need  2 of the11220s cantech shows above but only one tunnel mount 11320. You have 2 for quantity, am I missing something?

Just for clarity, I was trying to show that 11220-E4100 would be the correct prior to 08/73. And that 11220-E3300 is for 08/73 forward and is not backwards compatible.  @z8987 has a 1970 car show, so he would need to use the 11220-E4100 mount to avoid grinding the dowel pin (based on what I have read on this site). I just checked the parts book and can confirm that the front crossmember, which has the brackets that these mounts mate with, also shows a new part number also effective from 08/73. Strangely there is no mention of compatibility issues. It would be interesting to get measurements of the dowel pin location (center to center of mount hole to dowel pin hole) on the older and newer crossmembers.

Has anyone been able to purchase the 11220-E4100 mounts from Nissan, or do they now only have 11220-E3300 available?

This is getting confusing for me so I'll bow out now. My car cranked up and ran perfect this morning.

Good luck z8987.

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

You need  2 of the11220s cantech shows above but only one tunnel mount 11320. You have 2 for quantity, am I missing something?

If anybody is missing anything, it's me.  Thank you. 

 

29 minutes ago, CanTechZ said:

Just for clarity, I was trying to show that 11220-E4100 would be the correct prior to 08/73. And that 11220-E3300 is for 08/73 forward and is not backwards compatible.  @z8987 has a 1970 car show, so he would need to use the 11220-E4100 mount to avoid grinding the dowel pin (based on what I have read on this site). I just checked the parts book and can confirm that the front crossmember, which has the brackets that these mounts mate with, also shows a new part number also effective from 08/73. Strangely there is no mention of compatibility issues. It would be interesting to get measurements of the dowel pin location (center to center of mount hole to dowel pin hole) on the older and newer crossmembers.

Has anyone been able to purchase the 11220-E4100 mounts from Nissan, or do they now only have 11220-E3300 available?

From this is does look like E4100.  Has anybody put these on a 70?  Which ones did you use ? 

 

4 hours ago, siteunseen said:

This is getting confusing for me so I'll bow out now. My car cranked up and ran perfect this morning.

Good luck z8987.

Here's a little more to add to the confusion. I'm starting to think that the 11220-E4100 mounts don't have the dowel pin. When I check my 7/70 car, I can't feel anything protruding thru the hole in the bracket on the crossmember. I will be pulling my engine, hopefully soon, and will report back.

Edit >>>> Looks like i was incorrect there definitely is a dowel pin, see the last pic where I loosened the mount and pried the mount up a little. The pin is short but it is there.

Here is an image from the JDM parts book of 11220-E4100 and It doesn't seem to show a dowel pin.

 

Edited January 31, 20214 yr by CanTechZ

On 1/27/2021 at 4:53 PM, z8987 said:

I found a capable local guy that should have no problem rebuilding my 70 series one engine.  Is there anything I can provide him that will assist in his success.  He said he has no problem getting parts, and building the engine, but I'd appriciate any information that might be useful.  I've already got a document that has links to everything Z related. I probably got that here. 

 

Be sure he uses the correct cam cover and oil pan gaskets.

The cork gaskets are useless, and will start leaking before he pours oil into the engine. No sealer is needed on the cam cover gasket. I used grey silicone (a very thin film, just enough to hold it to the pan), nothing on the cylinder block side, assembled and snugged the bolts finger tight, let it set overnight, then torque to spec. I did this on my first race engine built in 1989, and have reused the pan/gasket on 3 different engines, with no leaks.

And I've used the same cam cover gasket along side the pan.

Is this mechanic doing the cylinder head too? If so be sure he details the valve springs. When the springs are cut and ground, a sharp edge forms on the ends of the spring wire. A little work with a die grinder fitted with a Scotchbrite hard roll smoothing and polishing the ends will save the spring seat shims, and the retainers from the raw edges that would otherwise cut into them. (I had a fellow racer come up to me at a meet once with a handfull of metal bits and ask me what they were. I told him they were pieces of spring seat shim, and then looked at his valvetrain and pointed out where some of the other ones were starting to come out from under the springs. Being a office worker, engineer as I recall, he paid one of the well known engine builders to build him an engine. I told him he needed to have a talk with them about the poor quality workmanship.)

Don't forget the camshaft to cam follower geometry check. Very important.

Also a very good idea to use a degree wheel when assembling the engine. crank and cam timing need to be set correctly so a good baseline can be established for further tuning.

Do you know what you will be using for cam profile?

Are you also looking for some performance gains? There is a lot of detail work that can be done, some to the block, and a lot to the head.

Has this engine been reworked before? How many miles are on it? If the cylinders are in good shape, in spec for roundness, size and taper, it is possible that they can be honed, and new pistons and rings used, extending the time to when the block is bored beyond usefulness.

If the block deck checks out within spec, leave it be, otherwise only take off the bare minimum to clean it up.

The rotating assembly, crank and rods, are forged steel, and everything is balanced very well from the factory. The Datsun engine builders were very proud of their work, and it shows in the excellent quality of these engines. They always need to be checked for balance, the crank along with the flywheel, clutch cover (without the disc), harmonic balancer/pulley and the cam chain gear and distributor/oil pump drive gear. Like with the valve springs, all sharp edges should be cleaned up before assembly, oil holes in the journals, edges of holes drilled for balancing. This prevents the possibility of a stress riser forming, which would result in a fracture of the crank, something that never ends well.

If you really want to go all out, polish the rods and crank, to reduce windage losses, polish the inside of the block and paint the it with Glyptal so the oil returns to the pan quicker. The cylinders can be eyebrow notched to unshroud the valves, same on the head. In addition to port matching, there is plenty to gain with a full port job (including manifold carbs and header) and flowbench work. But this all costs a lot of money, as mostly it is a time and material thing, and many hours of labor are involved. I do most of this to the engines I have built, save for the flowbench and porting work, and the stuff that has to happen in a machine shop with mills and boring machines. Saves me thousands of dollars.

I've probably left a couple of things out, if I remember them, I'll pop in again.

If you have any questions, please ask.

Edited January 31, 20214 yr by Racer X

I'll say plus one one the manifold port matching. Get some gasket paper and tap out the holes, transfer with a scribe and open them up to match. I did a bugle type flow with mine. When the head flows more you can get a bigger, 2.5" exhaust for me, to get all that incoming to outgoing flow. Breathe better is what you want.

I found this from what I did on my 280. Kinda gives an idea.

 

 

Be sure he uses the correct cam cover and oil pan gaskets.
The cork gaskets are useless, and will start leaking before he pours oil into the engine. No sealer is needed on the cam cover gasket. I used grey silicone (a very thin film, just enough to hold it to the pan), nothing on the cylinder block side, assembled and snugged the bolts finger tight, let it set overnight, then torque to spec. I did this on my first race engine built in 1989, and have reused the pan/gasket on 3 different engines, with no leaks.
And I've used the same cam cover gasket along side the pan.
Is this mechanic doing the cylinder head too? If so be sure he details the valve springs. When the springs are cut and ground, a sharp edge forms on the ends of the spring wire. A little work with a die grinder fitted with a Scotchbrite hard roll smoothing and polishing the ends will save the spring seat shims, and the retainers from the raw edges that would otherwise cut into them. (I had a fellow racer come up to me at a meet once with a handfull of metal bits and ask me what they were. I told him they were pieces of spring seat shim, and then looked at his valvetrain and pointed out where some of the other ones were starting to come out from under the springs. Being a office worker, engineer as I recall, he paid one of the well known engine builders to build him an engine. I told him he needed to have a talk with them about the poor quality workmanship.)
Don't forget the camshaft to cam follower geometry check. Very important.
Also a very good idea to use a degree wheel when assembling the engine. crank and cam timing need to be set correctly so a good baseline can be established for further tuning.
Do you know what you will be using for cam profile?
Are you also looking for some performance gains? There is a lot of detail work that can be done, some to the block, and a lot to the head.
Has this engine been reworked before? How many miles are on it? If the cylinders are in good shape, in spec for roundness, size and taper, it is possible that they can be honed, and new pistons and rings used, extending the time to when the block is bored beyond usefulness.
If the block deck checks out within spec, leave it be, otherwise only take off the bare minimum to clean it up.
The rotating assembly, crank and rods, are forged steel, and everything is balanced very well from the factory. The Datsun engine builders were very proud of their work, and it shows in the excellent quality of these engines. They always need to be checked for balance, the crank along with the flywheel, clutch cover (without the disc), harmonic balancer/pulley and the cam chain gear and distributor/oil pump drive gear. Like with the valve springs, all sharp edges should be cleaned up before assembly, oil holes in the journals, edges of holes drilled for balancing. This prevents the possibility of a stress riser forming, which would result in a fracture of the crank, something that never ends well.
If you really want to go all out, polish the rods and crank, to reduce windage losses, polish the inside of the block and paint the it with Glyptal so the oil returns to the pan quicker. The cylinders can be eyebrow notched to unshroud the valves, same on the head. In addition to port matching, there is plenty to gain with a full port job (including manifold carbs and header) and flowbench work. But this all costs a lot of money, as mostly it is a time and material thing, and many hours of labor are involved. I do most of this to the engines I have built, save for the flowbench and porting work, and the stuff that has to happen in a machine shop with mills and boring machines. Saves me thousands of dollars.
I've probably left a couple of things out, if I remember them, I'll pop in again.
If you have any questions, please ask.

Sheesh, how about I send the engine to you?


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9 hours ago, z8987 said:

Sheesh, how about I send the engine to you?


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Where are you at?

Where are you at?

Sacramento Ca, where are you?


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