Any Maintenance Recommendations

[Wally]

Working on engine while car at paint. It seemed to operate fine but any suggestions on anything i should since its all out? replace  anything just in case (everything is original so like 50 yrs old)

thanks

[siteunseen]

Timing kit, oil pump and valve seals plus the basics. Water pump, alternator, starter, fuel pump. Depends on what you've done lately. Good luck with it, the blue paint looks good.

[gwri8]

How are the front and rear seals as well as the oil pan gasket?  It would be a good time to address any leaks (If any) concerning  those.

[heyitsrama]

i would do the freeze plugs if they are not plated//brass. The brass ones look good when you dont paint them.

I would replace the exhaust studs because when they break off in the car then are a pain the arse to repair. Chase all the threads out too.

shifter bushing, but can probably do that in the car too.

 

Maybe build a header for a turbo now that you have the space to do it 😛

[Trnelson]

I’d second all of the above in regard to seals, timing kit, crusty bolts, plugs etc. I can’t tell for sure but if that is a F4W71A transmission AKA “monkey motion shifter” I’d replace the bushings and swap the pin for a bolt, Teflon nut and washers. You can slightly squeeze the fork to get rid of some slack. It can be done in the car but it is MUCH easier to do while it’s out. Worked great for me, just be sure to trim the bolt to length so it doesn’t hit the housing in reverse.  
Engine looks great!

[Dave WM]

if any evidence of side seals leaking on rear main bearing cap, do those. Not sure I would mess with them if no leakage was noted. you can tell easy with the flywheel off while doing the rear main seal.

Edited February 12, 2021 by Dave WM

[Wally]

Ya'll are a wealth of knowledge. thanks

[Wally]

I am replacing most everything. not sure about the oil pump though. most of them i see are around 100 bucks and the shaft spindle is another hundred or so by itself. seems kinda high to me

[Dave WM]

oil pumps generally don't go bad unless there has been severe abuse. Plus they are easy to replace, you don't need a new spindle unless the old one is damaged. AND you don't need to remove the spindle to replace the pump. Just remove the dizzy, grab the tang with some locking pliers (gently here) and unbolt the old pump. remove it leaving the spindle intact. then get the new pump fill it with oil, get a new gasket, and orient it so the oil pump drive fits the tang, don't turn the tang turn the oil pump. This way you don't have to worry about clocking the dizzy drive correctly.

tighten oil pump bolts back up, remove pliers from dizzy drive and you are good to go. IF you somehow drop the drive spindle out and loose the orientation, its not the end of the world just an extra step to get it in correctly. The FSM covers this well.

[Wally]

for the comment, F4W71A transmission AKA “monkey motion shifter” this is over my pay grade 🙂  can anybody direct me to additional resources that would help me identify my tranny or this process?

on my tranny the only #'s i see are 5   18   303  

[Zed Head]

The shifter mechanism is the clue.  Compare yours with a 71B transmission.

[S30Driver]

I agree with the timing set (japanese), manifold studs, freeze plugs, pan gasket.  Maybe the oil pressure sender, if it shows any signs of leaking.  Also a good time to consider upgrading to a turbo oil pump.

It has better flow & pressure, since it had to supply the turbo and oil cooler in the automatic.

A minor point, but if you care about factory originality, the oil pan should be black....  looks blue in your picture.