I see that now. thanks guys. New timing kit on the way. i think i can put that on no issues. However, i am not sure about timing.... does that need to be redone?

Edited April 1, 20213 yr by Wally

its easy just follow the FSM start with #1 TDC compression stroke. new chain will have two shine links to help with getting it setup up. You can see the bottom shine link on the av8 pic, lower link dot on cam sprocket.

Edited April 1, 20213 yr by Dave WM

Very good step by step instructions in Tom Monroe's Book that I mentioned above

Yes, you will have to adjust the timing once you get the new chain on. Did you get a sprocket with the kit (should have). Some kits have the timing notch on the back of the sprocket and some do not. Guys on this forum have recently figured out which company’s do and do not. It’s not a big deal but it helps if later you want to adjust timing as the engine chain stretches. There are 3 different positions to put the new sprocket on. Assuming your head has never been shaved, position 1 with a new chain is the starting point. I’s make sure the engine is a TDC before you remove anything and that way you have a point of reference.
Like Zed Head said . You set the shiny link next to the 1 on the sprocket. Be aware some chains don’t have a 2 shiny links so you have to count links. I believe it’s 21 links between but don’t quote me on that. Let’s cross that bridge when your kit arrives. I put an OSK on mine.
You see below the 2 different sprocket. First one has 3 small cut outs on the edge of the bezel .
Last pic is what your looking at for TDC.






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yes, the kit on its way includes the gears, chain, tensioner, gasket, and guides. Not sure which gear it comes with. will post when i get it in. thanks

Good. I was thinking that some of the timing kits do not come with the guides, and I would certainly take the opportunity to replace the guides if you're doing everything else.

Man that tensioner is really hanging out there. Looks like you were on the hairy edge of that thing popping out of there completely while the engine was running. Hope the new timing set takes care of all that.

Sorry. One more thought about the timing chain and the tensioner sticking out...

So the 240 slack side guide (the curved side) has a slotted hole at the top and two holes at the bottom. You have your guide with the bottom bolt going through the inboard of the two holes. I know this because I can see part of the outboard hole poking out from under the bolt head.

But a pic here from @siteunseen, he has his lower bolt through the outboard hole. This effectively pushes the guide further in and tightens the chain:

While putting in a whole new timing set is rarely a bad idea... What are the chances that the majority of the slack in your chain is due to an improperly installed slack side guide?

I'm more of a 280 guy and the 280 guide is a little different. Just one hole that the bottom so no decision making on which hole to use.

Edited April 2, 20213 yr by Captain Obvious
Added some detail

That shoe has been chewed.  The chain might be riding on the metal piston.  This is probably what BarefootDan's looked like before the chain jumped the sprocket and let his valves meet the pistons.

 

Guys can you confirm one thing please. The crankshaft oil thrower...should the key be flat allowing the throwing to easily slide off or should it be put in at a slight angle to the thrower stays on no matter its position?

On 4/1/2021 at 9:12 PM, Captain Obvious said:

 

thanks. I think i have mine all back on properly. The tensioner is on right but chain was so tight already not sure it was needed. When the motor is running and the chain moving wont it "scrape" up against the tensioner? i guess that is normal though...just would think it would tear pieces of the tensioner off

I don't remember doing the key any paticular way just flat side goes up. And my timing chain was so tight I thought the same thing, too tight but that was about 4 years ago and everything is fine. Motor spins up really quick. Plus I put my brand new timing kit on a new rebuild at hole #3 the last one for chain stretch so that made it extra tight. That worried me for about a year but it never broke or caused any problems just advanced the mechanical timing 8 degrees I think? gave it more bottom end but with the 5 speed I put in there it has plenty of top end too.

Your tensioner does have that rubber/plastic washer between the plunger and the body right? I think I can see it.

From Zed's post above...

Edited August 6, 20213 yr by siteunseen

 

Gotya. Before rebuild the key was at an angle where the thrower would NOT come off without removing the key. On page 1 or 2 of this thread i saw someone image where key was completely flat. I did mine like that and the thrower

will slide off/on. 

Here is a good image of the tensioner right before i put it. There is a black wedge of rubber on the end if thats what you mean. This is all that came in the rebuild kit for the tensioner btw.