10 hours ago, Wally said:

I'm not really digging the "bump" in the chain flow in that pic. It doesn't look smooth where the chain where it steps off the tensioner and onto the slack side guide.

Could you pull the top of the slack guide out some away from the cam and then push the bottom end in a little? That might make the chain "flow" a little more smoothly from tensioner to the guide?

yikes. ok. will need to take a few things back off and look into that. thanks

Push the guide in and use the back hole here, is what I'd do.

14 hours ago, Wally said:

yikes. ok. will need to take a few things back off and look into that.

I know you said the chain is already tight, but I'm thinking if you loosened the top of the curved (slack side) guide, it might give you enough slack to move the bottom end in and use the other hole.

Does anyone have a timing cover they'd love to part with? I am looking for one.

you can buy them new from japan.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13501a8600

On 8/9/2021 at 8:11 AM, siteunseen said:

Push the guide in and use the back hole here, is what I'd do.

 

 

Here is when i change to other hole as suggested. does this look better now?

 

The first one looks safer, a smoother transition to the guide.  You might catch that edge with the second setup.  That is the loose side, with the crankshaft pushing the chain off the sprocket.  It only sees the tension of the oil pressure powered tensioner, and the inertia of the moving chain.  It doesn't get pulled straight like the drive side.

In the first setup if you took your finger and pushed on that kinked link would it push inward and make a smoother curve?  That's what it's going to do when the engine is running.  Plus you'll get some wear immediately on the chain and the guides that will change things.

i just changed it back and tried to push on it. this is about all it will do. not sure if this look better? I can push the kink toward the tensioner and it straightens out but when i let go the tensioner pushes it back to this position

 

Edited August 10, 20213 yr by Wally

1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

you can buy them new from japan.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13501a8600

Have you bought one from them, or know anyone who has?

 

Sorry to sidetrack your thread @Wally.

1 hour ago, ETI4K said:

Have you bought one from them, or know anyone who has?

 

Sorry to sidetrack your thread @Wally.

yes. IIRC about 30$ shipping so about 100$ total. the casting was a bit rougher overall but it functionally I am sure it would be fine. I have video of it somewhere.

 

3 hours ago, Wally said:

i just changed it back and tried to push on it. this is about all it will do. not sure if this look better? I can push the kink toward the tensioner and it straightens out but when i let go the tensioner pushes it back to this position

 

That looks good to me. Your tensioner has full contact with the chain.

I used the outer hole and it's been good but different kits work differently. I put a ZX kit on my 2.4. It was super tight but like I said the car runs great, revs up to the moon.

Your call. Whatever you like is what you should go with. We're looking at pictures, you are with the actual motor. I don't doubt you'll be fine using either hole. Like Zed said it is the slack side. I like the full contact of the tensioner too. Sleep good tonight with whichever hole you use.

It's all good!