On 2/13/2021 at 3:29 PM, Wally said:

its out of the car. air hose is about 15' long. Gonna Wait and see what SteveJ says but maybe i will go with an electric wrench like

https://www.harborfreight.com/85-amp-corded-12-in-heavy-duty-extreme-torque-impact-wrench-64120.html

Use a cheater bar on your breaker bar, put two flywheel bolts in the crank hub and use one of these (the big one) to hold the crank from turning:

 

Just curious how others lock flywheel when tightening crank bolt. I usually pull the starter and get a friend to lodge a screw driver in a flywheel tooth to lock the crank. I don’t like to put a screw driver through the cam sprocket or a wrench on the cam as it could put pressure on the timing chain. If on an engine stand, I have a flat metal straight edge I bolt to crank end (2 bolts) until it rests against engine stand to lock the crank. How do others do this? Just curious.

Guy

  On 2/13/2021 at 5:34 PM, Diseazd said:

Just curious how others lock flywheel when tightening crank bolt. I usually pull the starter and get a friend to lodge a screw driver in a flywheel tooth to lock the crank. I don’t like to put a screw driver through the cam sprocket or a wrench on the cam as it could put pressure on the timing chain. If on an engine stand, I have a flat metal straight edge I bolt to crank end (2 bolts) until it rests against engine stand to lock the crank. How do others do this? Just curious.

Guy

Pretty much how I have always done it. And yes, the only time to use the screwdriver trick on the cam is when tightening or removing the cam bolt.

And always assemble cam and crank bolts with clean, dry threads, with blue Loctite. No antiseize, no oil, no grease, no dirt. Torque with a good torque wrench, not from Harbor Freight. Proto torque wrenches are very good for the money, much lower cost than SnapOff, MAC, etc.

Buy a cheap tool, cuss it everytime you use it.

Buy a higher priced tool, cuss it once when it cuts into your beer budget.

Bought a 1/2 Titanium Ingersol Rand air impact 10-12 years ago. Used it a couple of times, then discovered Milwaukee tools M18 cordless impacts. Haven’t touched it once since. Actually sold it last month 

 

And this is the mid-range model. There is a 1000 ft/lb one that’s only a bit bigger. The only air tools I use now is a air hammer that I use to get (most) spindle pins out with. 

Edited February 13, 20214 yr by zKars

I switched to M18 tools for all my work tools a while back. Overall, really nice. The batteries are expensive

+1 on the milwaukee impact, also consider their 3/8 ratchet, I bought a refurbished on from https://www.cpomilwaukee.com been abusing it without issue.

I have the ratchet in M12. It works good but then you have 2 kinds of batteries. they make it in M18 too but it's a lot bulkier

I bought a 1/2 Craftsman impact wrench that plugs in.  Took my crank bolt off like it was nothing.  
 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-7-5-Amp-1-2-in-Variable-Speed-Corded-Impact-Wrench/1000751798. 

ok went and bought an electric impact wrench that said 1050ft/lbs which should be more than enough. I had a regular, non impact, socket, 1-1/16 that fit. i tried it and it blew apart. I have a 27mm impact like someone here recommended but it wont come close to fitting in the hole to even get to the nut. Is the 27mm the right size?

Yes, 27mm fits the crank snout bolt on my 2 Zs. 1972 and a 1977.

Post a picture of your pulley and what you're dealing with. You may have some classic PO work around.

Yahtzee. its off. so you are right. it is 27mm. I got a 27mm "torque" style which apparently has thicker socket walls. Ran to Ace hardware and got a regular 27mm with the new impact wrench i just bought and it came off with no issue at all. 

Do the remaining pulley come off with the timing cover? or are they just compressed on and will come off now with some elbow grease. thanks guys