POs had done some wiring for radios and amps. Melt down for main  ground  engine and dash harness. They preferred wire nuts to terminals. Fusible links to starter and alternator where removed and wires put back with wire nuts.

I cannot believe datsun used all those plugs for the three harnesses to come together. That me will cause a problem,to much resistance.

Made a harness board to make it easy to work on.

1. is going though all the wires with my fluke meter to check for damage and the locations of switches etc.Tagging the connectors with blue tape

2. making a power relay station for engine compartment.

3. removing all those connections

4. I may go to a bulkhead fitting for engine to body harness

5. Fuse box was total junk so installing a blue sea unit maybe in right kick panel

I can post more as I build this harness if you would like

I’m interested to see how you re-wire everything, and what you use for connectors. When I got my car the front engine harness was cut out, so I had to find another donor harness and put it together.

I actually want to go back pull it all out and start over. So yes! Progress pictures, part numbers, the whole lot. 
 

This will be interesting! I have to do this at some point and will be good to see how it's done. Lots of details please! 

I was speaking to my z specialist here in west oz and he mentioned he usually reuses most of the connectors if they are in good condition, he said he just uses a Dremel and cleans the pins. Any opinions on this?

Ryan

Edited February 16, 20214 yr by 240ZBUILTBYME

@240ZBUILTBYME Actually I was using a brass coated steel brush on a flexible dremel to clean the bulb holder for the license plate lights.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/45Pcs-Brass-Wire-Wheel-Bowl-Pen-Polishing-Mix-Brush-Set-for-Dremel-Rotary-Tool/133398533650?hash=item1f0f2c1612:g:iv8AAOSwkWRe~Ft1

12 hours ago, billgtp said:

I cannot believe datsun used all those plugs for the three harnesses to come together. That me will cause a problem,to much resistance.

Nissan split the wiring harness up into 3 units for ease of installation on the assembly line, if the connectors are clean and not corroded the resistance will be minimal.

New shells and pins are easily available from Vintage Connections and several others. I can’t imagine just cleaning pins and putting it back in the old shell Have you looked at the wire in the crimps? Yuck!

When i cut old pins off, then strip a little insulation to crimp on a new pin, i am time and time again shocked by the corrosion I find on the wire strands themselves near the ends of the wires. In some cases I’ve cut back a foot and still found corrosion. I scrap each strand clean and then put the new connector on in most cases. Lots of fun. Without re-wiring the whole thing, that’s about the best you can do,

For all the high current wires, 12 gauge and larger, I often do replace then entire wire from the alternator to the amp meter and back to the fuse boxes. Those wires have to carry all the current they can and reliably.

Which reminds me, I have to show you have to take new 10 gauge plain white wire and paint a nice permanent red line on it to make it look like a stock wire.... Later. 

I forgot. Need to add that this is a late 1971 mfg date 8/71 car. I have 4 wire diagram 1970.1971,1971 late and 1972. None of these match the car complete. Turn signals in car are g/r and g/b not w/r or w/b.

The circuits really need to tested with a good volt ohm meter. The gauges in wire diagrams  show a y/r wire power feed from a green wire to fuse box.  I found a yellow wire from oil pressure and yellow red from temp gauge going to red and blue wire to fuse box.

This is not uncommon with older cars. I have found this in chevys,fords and my alfa romero.

1 hour ago, billgtp said:

I have found this in chevys,fords and my alfa romero.

I'm confused... A real Alfa owner would never, ever, never, ever, ever call their car an Alfa "Romero". Ever.     

2 hours ago, billgtp said:

 . . . . . . . . . . and my alfa romero.

Did you nickname it Caesar?

12 hours ago, zKars said:

New shells and pins are easily available from Vintage Connections and several others. I can’t imagine just cleaning pins and putting it back in the old shell Have you looked at the wire in the crimps? Yuck!

When i cut old pins off, then strip a little insulation to crimp on a new pin, i am time and time again shocked by the corrosion I find on the wire strands themselves near the ends of the wires. In some cases I’ve cut back a foot and still found corrosion. I scrap each strand clean and then put the new connector on in most cases. Lots of fun. Without re-wiring the whole thing, that’s about the best you can do,

For all the high current wires, 12 gauge and larger, I often do replace then entire wire from the alternator to the amp meter and back to the fuse boxes. Those wires have to carry all the current they can and reliably.

Which reminds me, I have to show you have to take new 10 gauge plain white wire and paint a nice permanent red line on it to make it look like a stock wire.... Later. 

I havent had a look in much detail at my wiring condition, I'm so far away from sorting wiring! Lol my z specialist has restored a lot of z's so I don't think he has no idea what he's talking about. But interested to hear other perspectives. 

So you say it as though all harnesses & connections have corrosion and all must be changed out. Is this the case?

Is it a matter of geography/weather or is it just the age of the wiring, hence all are affected. 

Ryan

9 hours ago, Racer X said:

Did you nickname it Caesar?

Haha!  I'm a former Alfa owner, and while not currently part of that community, I can tell you that there are two things that really get under the craw of Alfa owners... "Alpha", and "Romero".

Just poking a little fun at Bill's typo. Hopefully good natured.....