Rebuilding the harness

[Racer X]

23 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha!  I'm a former Alfa owner, and while not currently part of that community, I can tell you that there are two things that really get under the craw of Alfa owners... "Alpha", and "Romero".

Just poking a little fun at Bill's typo. Hopefully good natured.....   

 

At first I figured it was a fat fingered typo, since e and r are next to each other on the keyboard, but I see he types it that way on his profile too.

Perhaps he is having some fun at the expense of the Alfa purists.

 

[Captain Obvious]

1 hour ago, Racer X said:

Perhaps he is having some fun at the expense of the Alfa purists.

Haha! Now that's a possibility I had not considered! Quite possible!

I think I've distracted this thread enough...   

[Namerow]

On 2/17/2021 at 2:48 AM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

So you say it as though all harnesses & connections have corrosion and all must be changed out. Is this the case?

Certain elements of the 240Z electrical system were somewhat, ah, 'under-designed' by Nissan.  The headlight circuit (all of it, including the switchgear and right on out to the headlamp sockets) is the leading culprit.  The voltage regulator is a quaint anachronism -- easily replaced with a solid-state alternative if you want.  There are numerous threads on these issues -- and their remedies -- here on the site.  There are also relay-based upgrade mini-wiring harnesses for the headlight system that are conveniently available and at reasonable cost.  For the most part, I see no reason to start replacing the connector shells, although replacing the terminals within them is (arguably) a better solution than the Dremel-cleaning strategy.  To replace the terminals, you'll need the proper extractor tools and a good crimping tool (all available from Vintage Connections, who have been, in my experience, a quality vendor).

We have a couple of leading electrical system experts here on the CZCC site and, if you're lucky, they may choose to add their 50 cents' worth here.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

23 hours ago, Namerow said:

Certain elements of the 240Z electrical system were somewhat, ah, 'under-designed' by Nissan.  The headlight circuit (all of it, including the switchgear and right on out to the headlamp sockets) is the leading culprit.  The voltage regulator is a quaint anachronism -- easily replaced with a solid-state alternative if you want.  There are numerous threads on these issues -- and their remedies -- here on the site.  There are also relay-based upgrade mini-wiring harnesses for the headlight system that are conveniently available and at reasonable cost.  For the most part, I see no reason to start replacing the connector shells, although replacing the terminals within them is (arguably) a better solution than the Dremel-cleaning strategy.  To replace the terminals, you'll need the proper extractor tools and a good crimping tool (all available from Vintage Connections, who have been, in my experience, a quality vendor).

We have a couple of leading electrical system experts here on the CZCC site and, if you're lucky, they may choose to add their 50 cents' worth here.

Namerow thanks for the detailed reply! I’m learning constantly on this forum. It is a god send. I will for sure be researching further into this topic. And with that I think I’ve clogged up your thread enough bill, looking forward to following along. 

ryan 

[Roberts280Z]

You're lucky the PO didn't install a security system.

[billgtp]

Yes I have a real problem with the Romeo. I worked 31years for Richard Romero so I do that all the time.

I purchase a connector kit from Vintage connectors , a spade connector kit from cycle terminals and delphi connectors for outside connectors. Would have liked the deutsch connectors but did not want to purchase another crimp tool. A kit of shrink warp, plus 3-1, 2-1 shrink warp.

Started with the brake,turn signal and running lights.  Im installing the JDM taillights so I removed the brake switch from the turn signal circuit. Also I installed another 1157 socket on the top row of taillights of the JDM lights. This gives a much better brake light.

The front marker lights I removed the 1156 sockets and installed 1157 and ran them into the front turn signals.Pretty easy to do. Next will be the headlights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Captain Obvious]

1 hour ago, billgtp said:

Yes I have a real problem with the Romeo. I worked 31years for Richard Romero so I do that all the time.

Haha!!! That'll do it!

Wiring looks great. It's going to be a whole lot better with those new connectors!

[mayolives]

QUOTE  "Im installing the JDM taillights so I removed the brake switch from the turn signal circuit. Also I installed another 1157 socket on the top row of taillights of the JDM lights. This gives a much better brake light."

Please explain how you removed the brake switch from turn signsl circut.  

[billgtp]

Its pretty easy. If you look up JDM tail lights you should be able to find a really good article Arne ( in classiczcars forum) wrote on the JDM lights a long with some nice pictures.

This pic is from his article and how I did my lights. I ran a new wire from lights to the brake light switch and a wire from fuse box to brake light switch

[billgtp]

I  Disassembled headlight switch,turn signal switch and hazard switch to give them a nice cleaning and a little lube. Removed the wire connectors and replaced them. When I replaced connectors I moved the spade connectors for like the flasher and moved it into the new connector. I feel this makes things a little cleaner. I also removed all brake light wires from switches.

installed new headlight connectors and sealed them with 3 to 1 shrink warp.  I scored with a new left headlamp assy.  I also order flasher connectors from Vintage connections. I think this makes it nice.If you do this make sure you have the power on the correct side in case you go to led flashers.

[billgtp]

A little update. Tail harness is completed . I removed the Datsun relay for the rear window defogger and installed a borsch relay but moved to under passenger seat. Removed the 4 connectors Datsun used to connect harness to dash harness with 1 15 pin molek connector. I combined the 2 dash harnesses into on and removed all high amp wires and about 4 feet of wire. Like there was 18 inches of wire doubled over for the turn signal flasher. I the one 10 gauge ground that was fried and 3 14 gauge. One goes to each gauge unit. Because of all the rust  in the dash I want good clean grounds. Cleaned and test all gauges and wired harness up for volt meter from a 1978 280.

A nice tool I just purchased is a Dymo Rhino 4200 label printer. It will do heat shrink tube which is great to label wires

 

 

 

 

 

[Barefootdan]

I am wanting to tackle a project like this once my engine rebuild is complete. There are so many electronics that currently do work that I feel like starting with a fresh slate is just way easier. Half of my connectors are dry rotted and when pulling the engine, broke. I initially started buying easy to source connectors (fuel injectors, fusible link upgrade) but I am not very happy with where it is headed. Previous owner has crimps in random locations, and I am tempted now just to run new lines from pin to ecu. That leads me to a complete refresh....

 

When doing a modern harness update like this, what would prevent me from using modern style connectors? Amazon has bulk packs for dirt cheap that offer watertight connections if needed. I figure there are still a handful of relays or switches where connectors are not used (i.e. harness plugs directly into the relay rather than with a pigtail). For these, I would try to get lucky and reuse my current connectors, or upgrade to a modern switch as a replacement. 

 

Sorry if this comes off as naive, but it doesnt seem like too complex of a task, but just extremely time consuming! Are there major roadblocks (probably under the dash) that I am overlooking? 🙂