Fuel Pump Check Valve

[EuroDat]

Jeff, That is the later version.

They should look like these. I did have five. One is in my car and the other I gave to (Sarah) Fastwoman almost five years ago.

Ill send you a pm.

[Jeff G 78]

Thanks Chas!  The pictures really help with my search.  In my 40 years of working on Z cars, I've never removed the check valve from an EFI pump!  🙂  I will scour the internet to see if any of these Bosch parts are still available.  It's unlikely that I can get anything prior to vehicle shipping, so I'll likely try an inline between the filter and the rail to see if that works short-term.  I'll reply to your IM as well after I get out of meetings.

BTW, what ever happened to Sarah?  I can't remember why she left the forum.

[zKars]

If it helps, I recently discovered that three of my hoarded fuel pumps pump fuel out past the plastic electrical connection tower on the side better than out the outlet port. I suspect they are plugged internally and that pressure had to go somewhere..... 

So finally the actual helpful bit, I have at least three check valves on these pumps that available to who ever needs one...

 

[EuroDat]

1 hour ago, Jeff G 78 said:

BTW, what ever happened to Sarah?  I can't remember why she left the forum.

Sarah sold her 280Z a while back now. She still occasionally visits the forum, but it's a while back now.

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

I'll try the oil pressure sender wire first.  That's super easy.

Yeah, that's what I was looking for. Something easy. I know you don't have a lot of time and are just looking for a patch at this point.

So if that works for you, just tell the hauler guys to turn the key to ON and wait five or ten seconds before cranking the car. You could even tape a sign to the steering wheel if you need to.  Haha!

[Jeff G 78]

Update on the check vlave:  I bought and installed an inline check valve for $10 and installed it between the filter and the fuel rail.  I started the car yesterday to pressurize the system and then shut it off and let it sit for about 20 hours until this morning.  The temp was mid-20's in my garage this morning, so it should be worst-case for cold starting along the trip.  Prior to adding the check valve, the car would crank for 20 - 30 seconds and then try to start and cough a few times.  It would require 2-3 starting attempts until the whole system was pressurized and all cylinders were getting good fuel.  This morning, the engine cranked for only about 5 - 8 seconds and started for a few seconds before stalling.  It then cranked for another few seconds before startin and chugging to life.  

As suspected, the fuel is now staying in the rail for the most part, but I think with the check valve so close to the engine, the underbody line is no longer full of pressurized fuel so the engine doesn't want to keep running once the fuel in the rail is burned.  The check valve I added helps a lot but is not a 100% cure.  As I did my final purge of old parts yesterday ahead of the move, I did find an old, rusty EFI fuel pump bracket with the pump and hoses connected.  I don't know if the pump works or which car I even removed it from, but I was able to pull the check valve off.  I tried to blow through it both ways and it must be varnished shut as I couldn't get any air through it.  Once I'm in AZ, I will soak it in acetone an see if it is any good.  If not, I will search for a new check valve similar to the OE part.  I may hit you up @EuroDat if you are willing to sell one of your check valves.

For now, I think the crank time is acceptable for transportation across the country.  Thanks everybody for the help!

[siteunseen]

On 3/2/2021 at 1:04 PM, EuroDat said:

Jeff, That is the later version.

They should look like these. I did have five. One is in my car and the other I gave to (Sarah) Fastwoman almost five years ago.

Ill send you a pm.

I remember her getting one off e-bay that I thought was a good work around? I see now that was in 2011 so if she got one from you 5 years ago apparently it didn't work as well as she hoped. Oh well...

 

[EuroDat]

Hi Jeff,

You can try an alternative check valve for the Bosch 044 pumps. Bosch 1 587 010 536 is a banjo type fitting with built in check valve and stil, easy to find on the internet. Be carefull not to buy the M12x1.5 fitting. You need the M10x1.0 fitting.

 

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

For now, I think the crank time is acceptable for transportation across the country.

Excellent. Sounds like that will get your car to you without the moving guys killing your battery or burning out your starter.

You could also still unplug the oil pressure sender in addition. Maybe give that a try tomorrow morning to see if it makes things even a little better. I mean, I think you're good enough already, but just in case you're looking for that extra push over the cliff (as Nigel Tufnel suggests), you could try that too. 

[Jeff G 78]

Another update as I get closer to moving day.  I had a dumpster in the driveway for almost a week blocking the Z in the garage.  Today, the dumpster got picked up and it was time to fire the Z up and move it outside to give it a quick wash after 10+ years of sitting in the garage with only a dust cover on it.  After sitting for at least three full days, the car fired right up with only 1-2 seconds of cranking and no stall after the initial start.  I think I'm in great shape now thanks to everybody's help!  The Z parts I saved are almost all packed up and I'm 90% ready for the movers.  I just need to finish my race car so I can put it on the market.  It's getting close too.  The movers come Monday and the cars leave Tuesday.  For those between Michigan and Phoenix, keep an eye out for my Z, my 996 and my wife's FJ Cruiser heading west next week or the week after.  They say it could take until the April 6th to get my cars.  😞

Once I get the AZ house under control, I will concentrate on making the Z presentable.  It needs some block sanding, front and rear early bumper swaps, my Xenon front airdam installed and a BRE rear spoiler before it can get painted.  I'm not sure when it will all get done, but hopefully in the next year or so.

[Captain Obvious]

That starting time on the Z is perfect.

One final thought on the matter. I once used an ebay purchased cheap-O in-line check valve and it didn't last. Worked great for a month or so, but then the internal seal started to curl and wouldn't seal anymore. Presumably from incompatibility with ethanol in the fuel? In any event, the point is... If you used a el-cheapo valve, it should get you through this current transport move situation, but don't assume it'll last for years.

And good luck with all of the new venture!!   

[Jeff G 78]

Yeah, I figured that the $10 check valve was a temporary fix, but at least it's super easy to replace and I can get a new one in a day from Amazon if it fails prior to me replacing the check valve in the pump.  I almost bought the one that comes as a pair for $10, but it didn't have clamps, so I went with the single with clamps instead.

On a side note, I feel bad that I have had to throw away so many good Z parts in the past few weeks.  Today, I'm cutting perfectly good front fenders up with a death wheel so I can throw them away.  I am also pitching a rust-free POR-15 lined late '74 fuel tank and an okay '78 fuel tank.  I just can't take them with me.  I've pitched bins of parts.  😞