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Tuning With An Air/Fuel Gauge


chaseincats

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Ok gang we are at the finish line here - I followed @240260280 's method.  We're sitting at a 15.5 highway cruise with the TPS unplugged, so I cranked the bolt down, put some paint on the current gear tooth for future reference, and shut the cover.  I then plugged the TPS in and set the idle to 14.2 while running at 800rpm.

Now to bend the WOT arm which I will do when it's light out haha.

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Numbers look good. Let's just hope that when the WOT contacts are back in the picture, it doesn't mess things up.

Hopefully you'll be able to bend the WOT out of the way far enough so it doesn't interfere with your cruise numbers.

I was thinking about it just a little more, and another relatively simple idea would be to mount a new WOT switch somewhere else on the system if you needed to. That way you could adjust where the WOT actuated independent of the idle switch. (or vice versa... install a separate idle switch, etc.)

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11 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Numbers look good. Let's just hope that when the WOT contacts are back in the picture, it doesn't mess things up.

Hopefully you'll be able to bend the WOT out of the way far enough so it doesn't interfere with your cruise numbers.

I was thinking about it just a little more, and another relatively simple idea would be to mount a new WOT switch somewhere else on the system if you needed to. That way you could adjust where the WOT actuated independent of the idle switch. (or vice versa... install a separate idle switch, etc.)

Interesting idea - we may go that route depending on how the bending goes.  One final question, am I bending the thin copper arm (noted as "1" in the below picture) or the thicker grey metal arm (noted as "2" in the below picture)?

UPDATE: I bent #2 and using a multimeter to test the wot pin I'm now getting WOT continuity at 3/4 pedal pressure instead of 1/4 lol.  I tried to bend it back to get WOT at 2/3 but it doesn't really want to go back in place.  Either way, I'm happy with this and will report back on the driving dynamics/numbers tomorrow night.

IMG_7551.JPG

Edited by chaseincats
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11 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I still have fond memories of the start of this project cruising in CO's cool purple Z with the AF sensor stuck in the back on the streets of Toronto base lining the L Jetronic. I wish we lived closer together.  Two mad scientists... and more than enough lathes!

You and me too, my friend!! I wish we could spend way more time together.

Maybe next time, it'll be at your place.    :beer:

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51 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Yes, you want to bend the arm you have labeled #2. Leave #1 alone.

So by moving the actuation spot, you were able to get it out to about 3/4 full pedal? That's significantly farther then stock. Good luck with the numbers run. Hoping they look great across the board! 

Right, stock felt like MAYBE 1/4 or so, right?  Do you think I bent it too far?  I tried to bend it back in a bit but it wasn't holding that position and I didn't want to keep messing with it for fear of it breaking...

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9 hours ago, chaseincats said:

Right, stock felt like MAYBE 1/4 or so, right?  Do you think I bent it too far?  I tried to bend it back in a bit but it wasn't holding that position and I didn't want to keep messing with it for fear of it breaking...

Well from the A/F test results you had from before, I don't think you bent it too far. You'll know for sure when you get out onto the highway again and get some new numbers. If it's too far, you'll start to run lean at the high end of cruise before the switch closes and adds the WOT enrichment fuel.

I am a little concerned about the not holding position though... Do you think you fatigued the metal in the bend area?

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