5/71 240z.  Went to the market.  Car cranked twice then lost all electrical power.  DVM confirms the fusible link is open.  AAA towed it home, but it needs to be moved.  

Is there an emergency hack that I can create to allow the car to move short distances, until a stock or upgraded replacement arrives?

Thanks!

You should be able to use a ring lug and male lug as a short term. I would advise using fusible link wire in case you still have a short. Autozone lists it on their website. You may search others if they are closer.

https://www.autozone.com/starting-charging-and-miscellaneous-electrical/fusible-link-wire/bussmann-14-gauge-fusible-link-wire/32375_0_0

Advance Auto: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&searchTerm=fusible link wire

O'Reilly lists bulk fusible link wire, but the store selector isn't working so I can't tell if they have it locally.

 

When I was in high school a "friend" showed me how to wrap a blown fuse in Juicy Fruit wrapper to make the fuse work.  It burned all of my headlight wiring.  Those old Juicy Fruit wrappers must have been like 40 amp.

When one of those old screw in style house fuses would blow in his house, my grandpa used to put a penny in the bottom and screw it back in.  How much current can Abe Lincoln carry?

In case there's an actual problem with the starter, don't want to hard-wire it.  What about soldering up a 30A fuse with the appropriate terminals?

You have a DVM so, really, you should be checking for short circuits.  Every circuit should have some resistance.   I'm not familiar with the link or links on a 71, so can't really imagine what might have shorted when you turned the key to Start.  The wire to the solenoid either has fuse or is just a straight shot to the solenoid, I think.  Maybe an early Z owner knows what might have shorted.  The starter motor itself doesn't have a fuse it runs through the positive battery cable.

You didn't say how you used the DVM to test the link.  The fusible links are known for bad connections.  Those exposed spade terminals corrode.  It really sounds more like the heat from current flow caused an open circuit.  Just a guess.  Poke around with the DVM to be sure.

The engine cranked twice then the fusible link failed.  Probably doing it's job because the starter was drawing too much current.

I've had the connector fail on a different z.

There is no link in the starter motor circuit.  The current passes directly down the positive cable to the starter motor and through the starter motor to ground.  That's why the cable is so big.

Edited March 7, 20214 yr by Zed Head

To add to what @Zed Head said, the fusible link is like the main breaker in the service panel in your house. The main breaker protects the panel. For your car, the fusible link protects the white/red wire. 

The first thing I might suspect is the alternator could be shorted. I'm about to head out of the house, but I'll give you some diagnostics later.

10 hours ago, kenward1000 said:

The engine cranked twice then the fusible link failed.  Probably doing it's job because the starter was drawing too much current.

I've had the connector fail on a different z.

It could be the fusible link was just old and/or corroded, I've replaced a few that were like that.

Be sure to check the starter solenoid for a short, they also draw a lot of current.