Waking the Sleeping Beast Part II - 50 years later !!

[Shawninvancouver]

ok... here is the coil.. any help on how to test it would be great..  i have  a multi meter..what is the white rectangular unit beside the coil??

 

 

[northernz]

That's the ballast resistor.

[Patcon]

The ballast resistor reduces the current the points in the distributor see. They last longer that way.

Main fuse box is in the center console.

Only other over current devices are the fuseable links.

If the battery is charged it will start and run without the alternator or most any of the lights

[Zed Head]

 

[Shawninvancouver]

Ok.. I do have  a multi meter.. just need to know which wires should be hot when a battery is connected???  pleez help me through this scary test.....

im so close to bring this giant back to life...  i will take a video and post it 🙂 

 

i see a  fuse could be missing 😞 could this lead to a non start???

[Zed Head]

You are way way back on the "how to start an old engine" curve.  The odds are against you getting it started and even more on not damaging it.  No offense intended.  You are far far away from bringing the dinosaur to life.

Do you have any friends that are in to cars?  Preferably an older friend. maybe an old uncle, who knows something about points.  Many of today's car people know how to "tune" using a computer but don't really know what they're tuning.

You have an old very basic car with points and carbs.  Not much to it, but you do need to know how things work.  Good luck.

[grannyknot]

10 hours ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Nice stuff.. a few more questions...

1. does the alternator need to be working for the car to run?

2. are there any fuses or fusable links that will stop the car from starting?

3. if its power is working should a red light come on dash when key is turned to accesory?

4. are there any fuses hidden in the dash? that i cant see?

5. where does the car get its power from for the dash etc.. is that from the alternator??

 

I may try to start it tomorrow...  any other tips???

inside

1 The alternator needs to be in place with a tight belt so the water pump is working and if the alt. is dead then you would be just running off the battery so get yourself a new alternator and have one less thing to think about.

2 The pic on post #7 above shows you the fusible link that goes to the starter, check it for continuity, if it is blown then it's a no start.

3 Yes there should be but the red light but it isn't important at the moment, it could be burnt out and the car will still start.

4 There shouldn't be but anything is possible with car that has been modified.

5 The dash gets its power through the fuse box, have a look at the electrical diagram in the FSM

Shawn, getting an old car running again is an exciting project and you are obviously committed but when you ask a question and someone answers it you need to report back on what happened when you followed the advice you were given. We need that information to know what's going so we know what to advise next, if you don't give us that feedback people here will get tired and stop helping you. It's a two way street.

 

Edited March 13, 2021 by grannyknot

[Shawninvancouver]

OK. I will keep you all posted on progress as i am sure this will be able to help other.  I have someone with experience ( with cars ) helping me, but no computer forum experience, so i will post and report as best i can.  when it comes to points and carbs i have worked on honda bikes with points so i understand then a bit. cars are a step up though.

one more question on the road to starting..

 

1. Is it ok to fill the radiator with just water?

- how do you fill the whole system?

 

I dont think anyone said anything about taking the starter motor out to test it...  ?

 

another photo of inside

[siteunseen]

Looks like a ZX short throw shifter to me, that's a good thing if it's in decent condition. Borg Warner T5.  https://datsunzgarage.us/borg/

maybe it's just the close ratio ZX. Not the T5. Sorry, just waking up with some coffee. 

 

Edited March 13, 2021 by siteunseen

[Shawninvancouver]

Hi siteunseen, Im not a super knowledgable engine guy.. I do know its the stock L24 in there and it matches the frame. - there was no extra engine work done.. only some electrical stuff for some lights i ripped off...  what is the zx short  shifter?? - all i know is the tranny seems ok as it stiff shifts fine...

is it rare to have an L24 left in these things?? lol...  especially matching,,,,,

these are the crazy electronics in this.///

how did they get that cable through the firewall????

[Zed Head]

It looks like you've removed the battery.  That's good.  You asked about the negative battery cable before.  It attaches to one of the mounting bolts for the starter, I think, or any bolt that is attached to the engine block.  

Have you taken the dipstick out to check oil quality and level?  It's easy to do.

Remove the oil fill cap and look inside.  Another easy thing.  Is it dry and rusty or can you see remnants of oil?

Remove the radiator cap and see how the coolant looks.  Easy.  Is it full?  The radiator looks like it has been leaking so will probably leak again if you ever get the engine started.

Edited March 13, 2021 by Zed Head

[siteunseen]

It's not rare to have the original motor, it's actually common on this forum. I prefer originality as most others do. We upgrade parts to newer and better versions but always keep the old parts so what you do is reversible. 

In my opinion, judging by your photos, that car could very well have had an L2.8 at some point in the past. The engine bay has obviously been painted which would pretty much require removal of the motor(s). The signs of EFI are another clue to me. Someone could have used the lightweight 240 body and upgraded to a higher horsepower motor but kept the 2.4 you have now reinstalled.

The ZX transmission is a 5 speed. Your car came with a 4 speed.

I'm just ASSuming here. It's not in anyway a mechanic's opinion.

I would pull the bottom radiator hose and flush the cooling system out. The radiator and then through the top thermostat housing. Put some cheap 10w30 and filter on. Pull the float chamber lids and make sure that's all clean of old fuel. Definitely use a jerry can and bypass the fuel tank. Pull the plugs and squirt some 10w30 in there then turn the motor over by hand, roll it in gear or turn the 27mm bolt in the middle of the front pulley clockwise from the front. Remove the valve cover and pour 10w30 over the valve train. A couple of photos of that would be good to show these guys. Your oil spray bar maybe missing for all you know. Or broken. Take a 4 penny finish nail and make sure the small holes are open.

Good luck. I gotta run now.

 

2 hours ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Hi siteunseen, Im not a super knowledgable engine guy.. I do know its the stock L24 in there and it matches the frame. - there was no extra engine work done.. only some electrical stuff for some lights i ripped off...  what is the zx short  shifter?? - all i know is the tranny seems ok as it stiff shifts fine...

is it rare to have an L24 left in these things?? lol...  especially matching,,,,,

these are the crazy electronics in this.///

how did they get that cable through the firewall????