Mechanical fuel pumps have been letting me down - I'm 0 for 3 in the last 15 months. (2 from RockAuto, 1 from NAPA). Thought I'd convert to electric and have done my reading on the basics on this conversion. I have the green/black wire pair near the tank, and found the main power supply at the console (I think).  This is how I found it near the fuse block

 Black/White and thick green on the left- that's correct right?  I have power to the big black/white at key position RUN.  I thought that connector would be disconnected, but I'm surprised to find it connected to green/white, red and red/blue.  I think those have something to do with the illumination of the old automatic shifter / choke light. I converted to a 5speed manual long ago.  I was expecting the single solid green wire/connector from the rear to be hanging loose.  The passenger footwell appears to be completely intact with no green wire unattached. 

Not sure where to look next...first forray into 12V systems.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s been a while, but there is a connector harness that loops the green and black to complete the circuit . Basically all the z cars had the potential for electric pump , but the circuit was incomplete under the dash . I think I have that small plug set up somewhere if I can find it. 
Look at early schematics too for help

So madkaw, by a 'loop' do you mean it's a like a jumper?  The black/white simply connects to the green?  I could make that - needs a 20A fuse too.

 

I don't have an electric pump but if I did decide to one day this is a good write up I saved for my '72. You might find something useful in here.

http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html

 

3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I don't have an electric pump but if I did decide to one day this is a good write up I saved for my '72. You might find something useful in here.

http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html

 

That looks like what I did on mine. I wish I would have taken a photo of the wires.

I used an inline fuse holder to jump the 2 wires together.

Thanks siteunseen: I saw that before and was intimidated at first, but after studying it I think I can do this. Thanks. 

gundee:  That is how I thought I would do it - I think a bit of safety is in order for me, so I'll go with the oil pressure switch.  I'm teaching my daughter to drive a manual, don't need to have a fire. Bad example for her!

For some reason the fuel pump harness with green and black/white was clipped into a connector that I now think is the fog light harness.  Why I can't tell you but I don't think anyone's ever done anything in there. Not hacked up at all. Oh well.  I did do a continuity check on the thick green wire and it definitely runs to the rear green wire. 👍

 

Edited March 14, 20214 yr by Rob1972

If you don't have the correct spacer, the mechanical fuel pump will destroy itself.

There should not be any problem with mechanical fuel pumps 

16 hours ago, bartsscooterservice said:

If you don't have the correct spacer, the mechanical fuel pump will destroy itself.

There should not be any problem with mechanical fuel pumps 

You're right there shouldn't be, but replacement parts are made cheaper and with less accuracy than ever before.  For example, check out the arm placement on my previous three pumps:

My current pump arm almost touches the chain and is off the eccentric by half!  I doubt Nissan would have made it that way. Anyway, the arm seems to operate fine, but the pump can't draw fuel from a jar of fuel three inches below the (new) filter.  Not a drop.  It operated fine for a year then failed. 

 

I believe this is correct, gasket/spacer/gasket:

 

yes.. i dont know either if the replica pumps have the correct geometry even with the spacer !?

I agree lots of junk these days with all those immitation china parts