First thing to do might be to just measure resistance from the mounting point of the Pertronix module back to the battery negative.  Ignition modules usually ground through their mounting points and since the Pertronix is a points replacement it would also.

Then keep your meter connected and wiggle wires and move things around and see if the number stays low.  I think less than about 1/2 ohm is a good number, over that distance.

Check all the points TerrapinZ showed for sturdiness.  Check your positive connections for problems also.

Will do & thanks Terrapin! 😉

Gents,  I'll check all those  connections out this weekend.  (I won't be able to test this weekend though, because I'm waiting for a cam oil tube from Yoes Racing. 

In the meantime,  here's a distributor I bought on ebay (see pics) .  It came from  Kuwait(!).  My plan is to swap it with the old distributor as-is - with the points, so I have some more questions:

1: What do I need to do under the hood in order to revert back to points from a Pertronix set up, other than a) Reconnecting the Ballast resister and b) Reinstalling the condensor on the coil bracket?

Question 2: Should I leave the 3.0 ohm flame thrower in or re-install a 1.0 ohm flame thrower that I have? (I'm guessing the latter.)  

Question 3: Is there good wiring diagram anywhere that would help in this process?  (I have a Haynes and the FSM.)

Question 4:  What am I NOT asking that will get me in trouble?! 🙂

Gracias, Amigos.

I'm no expert on distributors, but I think that is a euro distributor and may have a different advance curve. 

I found this old post about that very dizzy. I also found this chart showing the advance differences. Maybe someone here can explain what the different curves will ultimate mean for your set up. 

Just to add to your frustration 🥴 I hope it works for you. 

 

 

Oops! Looks like a d608-56a, hard to see but there is a d609-56a in here. Sorry guys, carry on while I wake up.

I have know idea what this thread's about but I do have that Excel spread sheet @Walter Moore put together and it has the d611-54. 

Edited April 7, 20213 yr by siteunseen

The timing curve is not going to adversely affect his troubleshooting 

Here's a better picture of showing the model number.  Also below is a picture form my Haynes manual where it's referenced.  Good to go? 

My only concern is that it's for a car "with emission control systems" and I've removed most of my emission control components (air pump, non-return valve & flame trap).   I'll triple-check for air leaks (again) around these components, but other than that, any issues with running this distributor?

 

'll

Edited April 7, 20213 yr by Jughead

15 hours ago, Jughead said:

1: What do I need to do under the hood in order to revert back to points from a Pertronix set up, other than a) Reconnecting the Ballast resister and b) Reinstalling the condensor on the coil bracket?

Question 2: Should I leave the 3.0 ohm flame thrower in or re-install a 1.0 ohm flame thrower that I have? (I'm guessing the latter.) 

It should just drop right in to the same spot the old one comes out of.  The Pertronix conversion is all under the distributor cap.  The one ohm coil would be a match for the ballast resistor.  Like madkaw says it should tell you if the distributor is the problem.  Set the points gap and it should work just fine.

I don't think that you need to worry about the other condenser.  That's the radio noise condenser, not the points condenser, which is already installed on your new unit.

Hi all.  Since my last post, I have done the following:

1)      Installed a replacement cam “oil sprayer tube” that I got from Yoes Racing heads (See picture below)

2)      Installed the new old stock (NOS) distributor shown in my previous posting. 

3)      Set the points gap.  Reconnected the ballast resistor and put the 1.0 Ohm coil back in.

4)      Started the engine & adjusted the timing.

Result: It started quickly and ran about the same as described above,  BUT…

As we were adjusting the carb mixture, the engine started to sporadically shake, with a corresponding metal-on-metal “clunking” sound - similar to the sound a carb piston makes when lifted and dropped in the carb body without the damper rod in.

We shut the engine down to check under the valve cover and make sure cam oil bar was OK, which it was. 

Then, using a remote starter switch we turned the engine over in short “bumps” to watch the valves and cam operate, and to locate the “clunking” sound.  We found the “clunking” sound to be coming from the timing chain slapping against the timing chain guides/timing cover as the engine rotation come to a stop.  Depending on where the rotation ends up after bumping the starter, the chain can be very tight, or pretty loose. 

Is this right?  Or should the chain tension be constant - no matter the position of the cam/crank? 

The clunking sound is pretty noticeable, but it might’ve been there the whole time and I just never noticed it. Don't know, but now I'm wondering if this is what was causing the tuning issues described above...    Thoughts?

Sounds like you found the problem

Not much slack when first installed. Something has worn or come loose.

As so simply put in the FSM 

"Check for wear and breakage. Replace if necessary"

My first suspect would be tensioner. Either damaged, no or low oil flow. New cam bar may exacerbate an already marginal oil system?