Carb issue

[Alex240z]

19 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

The spring definitely holds the nozzle screw in place. Can you remove the stopper plate? As I recall it is screwed in.

forgot to mention that yes I can remove it. 

[Mark Maras]

"Make it so".

[siteunseen]

I keep my carb hose connected and plug the other end that connects to the vacuum advance with a golf tee. I have no idea what that does or doesn't do but it's what I've always done. When I do the 3,000 rpm full advance feature on my light I hook it back up. No golf tee. 240 and 280 are the same at 17 and 34. My cars really like advance. I may be destroying them today but I'll let the next owner deal with that. I'm having fun today...

[siteunseen]

17 hours ago, Alex240z said:

Only issue with that method I found is I have a plate under the locking nut that stop it’s from going lower. I don’t know if it was set wrong or what because it’s adjustable. But if I try to do 10 full turns (not sure if it’s half or full) it just stops around 4 1/2. After a search of 4 screw carbs I couldn’t find one with the stopping plate. 

Just guessing. I'm bored, maybe you can only go 4.5 down is the linkage is stopping it. In this photo where the scribe is in the hole one the nozzle and through the hole on the connecting flat bar. If you take that screw out it'll go down 10 with ease. If the screws in you'll have resistance from the linkage springs and what not.

And that plate I think Mark is talking about has a screw in it to keep it in place.

The reason for this screw from all I've read is to turn the knob all the way up untill snug then use that screw to adjust dead center up.

Edit. It has something to do with the makers on the knob. I used a Sharpie on mine.

Edited June 19, 2021 by siteunseen

[Captain Obvious]

I believe those limiter bolts are just an attempt by Nissan to keep you from turning the knobs "too much". Kinda like the limiting caps on carburetor adjustments where they don't want you messing with them "too much".

And in 72, they took that idea even further limiting the adjustment even more. Those are the funky large knobs on the underside of fhe 3-screw round tops.

[Alex240z]

4 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I believe those limiter bolts are just an attempt by Nissan to keep you from turning the knobs "too much". Kinda like the limiting caps on carburetor adjustments where they don't want you messing with them "too much".

And in 72, they took that idea even further limiting the adjustment even more. Those are the funky large knobs on the underside of fhe 3-screw round tops.

Here’s a photo

[Alex240z]

Hello, long time no see. So after doing the trick it does seem that the floats liked being  at 10mm rather than 14mm. She runs little rich but there’s no bogging or lost of power under load. She drove well for an hour until the carbs vapor locked. I haven't checked yet to see if my temp gauge that was reading 250f the entire time was working or not. I just assumed it didn’t because I changed the termo, the sensor, radiator, and some hoses. After it cooled down it started up again only for me to run out of gas. Guess my fuel gauge wasn’t working. Other issues at the moment are: brakes are leaking from the hardline to soft line in the front. No clue why because I just changed them with SS but both are leaking. I rebuilt my brake booster I’m missing a locking washer for it so brakes are meh. Trans leaks quite a bit. But seeing it’s a 4 speed i don’t know if I want to fix and maybe save to switch to a new trans like a cd009. 
 

However! Some good news. I got a hold of a diesel crank and I just tore down a f54 block. In a couple of weeks I’ll be ordering the 3.2L stroker from robello. Also got a hold of 3 type T mikuni 40phh. I haven’t done much looking into what cylinder head to use because I have a e88 and a p90. I think I’m going to stay with the p90 because I’ve heard it lowers compression and I might do a turbo application in the future we’ll see. However I have no clue what valves, springs, cam, and etc specs to use. I do have a cracked p90a around so I might learn how to port and unshroud the valve on that one just to save me some money. I might create a discussion on here about my restoration project just don’t what topic to put it under. 

[Patcon]

I would rely on Dave Rebello for spring and cam recommendations or sourcing.

SS hard lines are very hard and can be difficult to seal. A good flare wrench is necessary and more torque