Odd cylinder liner factoid. I didn't know.

[Zed Head]

Browsing the parts manual and came across these factory cylinder liners.  Didn't realize they were a factory piece.  And, even better, you can get them on Amazon.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block/26

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-11012-N4200-Liner-cylinder-11012N4200/dp/B01LX9V3ZK

[RS02]

Interesting indeed. This should be helpful to those numbers matching guys...

[heyitsrama]

Oh wow, courtesy nissan does not show a part for `11012-N4200`. ~$500 thats super expensive. I did not realize you could re-sleeve the block it did not look that way when I had my engine apart, maybe i misses it. 

If is possible i wonder why people say that they have to go to a bunch of blocks till they can find one that has the thickness to support an overbore to 3.2L+ off a L28, why not just sleeve the block out the gate to have enough thickness.

[texasz]

40 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

Oh wow, courtesy nissan does not show a part for `11012-N4200`. ~$500 thats super expensive. I did not realize you could re-sleeve the block it did not look that way when I had my engine apart, maybe i misses it. 

If is possible i wonder why people say that they have to go to a bunch of blocks till they can find one that has the thickness to support an overbore to 3.2L+ off a L28, why not just sleeve the block out the gate to have enough thickness.

If I recall correctly from what I've read on that subject when boring the engine out for a 3.2L you can sometimes get into the water passages (the blocks are not 100% identical and have some minor variations in casting) which is why people may have to look at several blocks until they find one that will tolerate that size bore.  If you bore it and get into the water passage then sleeve it you no longer have the bore size you need, unless you bore over even more which gets into the water passage even further, then when you do install the sleeve you are making the water passage smaller which is likely to cause heat issues.

[Racer X]

10 minutes ago, texasz said:

If I recall correctly from what I've read on that subject when boring the engine out for a 3.2L you can sometimes get into the water passages (the blocks are not 100% identical and have some minor variations in casting) which is why people may have to look at several blocks until they find one that will tolerate that size bore.  If you bore it and get into the water passage then sleeve it you no longer have the bore size you need, unless you bore over even more which gets into the water passage even further, then when you do install the sleeve you are making the water passage smaller which is likely to cause heat issues.

Not to mention how to seal the water passage where the sleeve passes trough the block from the deck to the crankcase.

Diesel engines have provisions for sealing (o-rings) but the cylinder block is designed to have drop in cylinders. An inframe can be done with a kit that includes a crank, postons and rods, and sleeves. Pull the head and send it to the cylinder head shop. Swap out all the other stuff, and by then the head is back. Drop it on, put all the accessories back on, fill it with oil and coolant and fire it up.

The block never comes out or sees a machine shop.

 

Edited March 23, 2021 by Racer X

[dutchzcarguy]

13 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

courtesy nissan does not show a part for `11012-N4200

My June 1986 book about L20-L24-L26-L28 engines service manual says ( On page EM-11) if the cylinder has worn be-yond the wear limit use cylinder liner. (So it works for any L20 L24 L26 or L28 !)

Interference fit of cylinder liner in cylinder should be 0,08-0,09 mm  (So i guess they get in with force and a heated block and frosen cylinderliners.. or what? They don't elaborate..

Edited March 24, 2021 by dutchzcarguy