Suspension Cleanup and Refurb

[Racer X]

3 hours ago, davewormald said:

I know you'll all be shocked to hear that saving money on the KYB's just cost me a small fortune in parts I wasn't there to buy ...

PBA strikes again.

[davewormald]

I've never replaced wheel bearings before. Is this a normal amount of play in the outside bearing? I suppose it's pressed against the race by the washer and end nut. It seems to be in perfect shape otherwise and the race is also perfectly smooth. I was hoping not to have to replace them, but while I have everything dismantled, I'll do it if it's necessary. Also, any tricks for cleaning all the old grease out of the hubs and bearings? De-greasing the hubs before painting them is a challenge!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zr2rRRQCiDMLcCAY9

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

[siteunseen]

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/frontwheelbearings/index.html

I went by this. I use lacquer thinner for degreaser.

Good luck

[davewormald]

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I went by this. I use lacquer thinner for degreaser.

Thanks, that's a good description of the process. I think I could come up with that set of "tools" for the job. I just bought lacquer thinner, so I'll give that a shot for cleaning things up.

Any thoughts on the state of the bearing I included the video of? Seems like a lot of play, but I'm not sure what they're like new. The one from the other front wheel is exactly the same.

[siteunseen]

I'm sorry. I can't really say from the video. That aren't too expensive if I remember right so I suggest new, since your there. 

I remember using the old ones to drive in the new ones, I think. It's been some years ago. Maybe a big socket to get the old ones out?

 

[siteunseen]

The races! Thats what have to be driven down and seated. Not the bearings. Sorry.

[davewormald]

Yep, the bearings are cheap. I was hoping to avoid the removal and installation of the races, since it seems like one of the only steps I'm looking at that could end in disaster! Although popping the brake pistons out, even with a bike pump, was exciting. Good job I kept my fingers out of there!

[davewormald]

Before I wire-wheel away the evidence, anyone have any idea why the caliper from my 240Z has 260 and 280 written on it?

[Mark Maras]

 I'd guess it's a used replacement.

[davewormald]

15 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 I'd guess it's a used replacement.

Makes some sense. The caliper from the other side was much more rusted, but I'd noticed that all the suspension parts from one side are in worse shape than the other. There was a very noticeable difference between the calipers, though, so I think this one was a replacement. Hopefully I'll never have to separate the two sides of it. Looks like someone once tried to do it and made a real mess of one of the bolts. All the parts I ordered from Rock Auto have now made it to the cross border shipping location, so hopefully I'll receive them next week and get on with this!

[EuroDat]

I think there are some minor casting differences between the 240Z and the 260Z/280Z calipers, but they all use the same revision sets, brake pads and the pistons are the same.

With the pistons and brake pads being the same, you should not have any issues using any combination of calipers. Aftermarket kits have the sealing ring between the halfs, but Nissan does not supply them.

Same for the chewed up bolt holding the two halves together. If you want to rellace it you will be in the aftermarket parts. Nissan reccomends replacing the complete caliper if you need split then apart for any reason.

[davewormald]

Thanks @EuroDat. I noticed that the Haynes manual says the same thing about replacing the caliper. I don't see any reason to split it, anyway, fortunately!