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Barefootdan's 280z Build


Barefootdan

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On 6/16/2021 at 2:55 PM, ETI4K said:

Two words for you my friend- mini split.

That would be a joy. Even to keep it at like 90 degrees would make it so much nicer. 

This passed week I finally was able to get around to dropping the block at the machine shop. Deck, Hone, and Clean. In the mean time I sprayed the engine bay satin black (Please dont hate me!). I'll have to grab some photos once everything is cleaned up. I am more and more tempted to do a light sand and clear coat the patina look for the time being. I dont see myself being able to give the car a full paint job anytime soon so I may as well embrace it. Do people usually clear with a matte/satin or is gloss used?

 

Lastly, the block is scheduled to take 5 weeks to finish. I need to order bearings and rings to finish my build check list. Progress is slow but its coming along 🙂

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I just finally found bearings for mine (.25 oversize).  Had to order from Australia - anywhere from 2 days to 6 weeks for delivery.  My engine build has obviously come to an abrupt halt.  Hopefully, you'll have much better luck!

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13 hours ago, ETI4K said:

I just finally found bearings for mine (.25 oversize).  Had to order from Australia - anywhere from 2 days to 6 weeks for delivery.  My engine build has obviously come to an abrupt halt.  Hopefully, you'll have much better luck!

Dang thats brutal! What is the reasoning for the oversize? I planned on going with factory specs

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Crank had to be cut way back in time to clear wear-related damage, so now I can't use stock bearings.  I would think that by now in the life of these motors, most cranks would have needed to be cut, but maybe not.

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I can get a "matched set" from King Bearings, but they are all aluminum, and the mains aren't available until Oct.  It seems King has gone the way of Clevite, foregoing tri-metal.

Taiho is available now (sort of) as long as shipping from AU works.  Delivery estimate is any day up to mid Sep.

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Look at the Mahle website.  Most P-series bearings have been superceded by their A-series. 

https://web.tecalliance.net/mahle-catalog/qa/parts/autocare/assigned?targetId=6642&parentAssemblyGroupId=10&assemblyGroupId=136&page=0#@brc/autocareassem:1983%20Nissan%20280ZX;targetId:6642/autocarelnkparts:Cylinder%20Block%20Components;targetId:6642;parentAssemblyGroupId:10;assemblyGroupId:136;page:0

Of course, some are still available, but in my search they were only standard sizes and larger oversizes - nothing at the .25mm size.

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Thanks to @Zed Head for the idea of just cleaning up the body work for the time being. I spent the past couple days getting all the surface rust off the car. I originally thought that the paint faded to the ugly brown, but there was a nice surprise hiding underneath!

I started off using a scotch pad and water. Then stepped up to some light CLR mix for the rust spots:
IMG-2750.jpg

 

As I went through, my process changed and I didnt like the look of the bare metal (where the CLR took off the rust). So I went back to just water and scotch pad. I had to remind myself that we arent preparing for paint, and just trying to clean up the surface! 🙂 I didnt like how rough the surface felt still after, so I hit it with some fine steel wool to smooth things up a bit.

IMG-2751.jpg

This was taken right after a wipe down so it is still moist in some areas and streaky in others. But the difference was amazing. 

Here are a few more comparisons:

IMG-2752.jpg

IMG-2753.jpg

IMG-2765.jpg

 

From there I went and grabbed some Penetrol to "seal" the paint temporarily. It gives a satin/gloss finish that also makes the colors and rust *Patina* some extra vibrance. 

IMG-2767.jpg

IMG-2770.jpg

Just a reference of where we started:

 IMG-2771.jpg

IMG-2766.jpgHood.jpg

The streaks on the hood leveled out, I just took the photo too soon 🙂 

 

She absolutely deserves better body work in the future, but this will at least give me a finish that I can wipe down without my microfiber snagging immediately! 😄 

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