Barefootdan's 280z Build

[SteveJ]

19 minutes ago, Barefootdan said:

I will also be switching the switch panel to a switch 12v rather than a switch ground  (thats alot of switches!). I had one question pertaining to the starter solenoid. The small yellow wire that activates the starter seems to be low amperage. Why does this need to go through a relay? Can I just go from fuse box -> push button switch -> solenoid? I recall testing my starter in basically the same principal by using a jumper lead directly to the battery terminal.

Switch panel?

As for the solenoid wire, until the advent of the atrocious seatbelt interlock relay, the black/yellow wire went straight to the solenoid. The coil for relay in the wiring diagram is energized by a circuit going through the seatbelt interlock relay that I believe was deleted prior to the 75 coming to market. (https://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2009/11/the-great-safety-belt-interlock-fiasco/)

As for the fuse box, pay attention to the source of power for the circuits. I have looked at the Eaton fuse boxes in the past. What I didn't like is that they didn't seem flexible for the different ways circuits are fused in the S30s.

By the way, make sure you don't delete the shunt unless you are going to change out the ammeter gauge for a voltmeter.

[Barefootdan]

2 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Switch panel?

As for the solenoid wire, until the advent of the atrocious seatbelt interlock relay, the black/yellow wire went straight to the solenoid. The coil for relay in the wiring diagram is energized by a circuit going through the seatbelt interlock relay that I believe was deleted prior to the 75 coming to market. (https://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2009/11/the-great-safety-belt-interlock-fiasco/)

As for the fuse box, pay attention to the source of power for the circuits. I have looked at the Eaton fuse boxes in the past. What I didn't like is that they didn't seem flexible for the different ways circuits are fused in the S30s.

By the way, make sure you don't delete the shunt unless you are going to change out the ammeter gauge for a voltmeter.

Thank you!

Switch panel is going in to trigger fans, lights, ignition, etc. Rather than using the stalks and key. 

Good point with the fuse box. It is just a single buss bar for power, so everything will be powered when I trigger the main power relay. I think I am okay with this. I may work the headlights, horn and dash clock to have constant 12v, but I dont think anything else needs it. I wont have a radio with clock and I cant think of anything else.

Shunt is staying for now 🙂 If my ammeter is toast, I'll swap it for a voltmeter.

[wal280z]

20 hours ago, Barefootdan said:

Cleaned up the diagram a bit. Theres still some things I'm not 100% sure on but I will probably be better off figuring out when I have physical parts in my hands to test with a multi-meter.

I'm no expert, but I might suggest a 3-pin connector to go to the fuel pump (then exit the cabin to connect to the fuel pump) rather than drilling an extra large hole for the 6-pin connector. Also to move the gauge away from that harness - you really don't want to have to look behind your shoulder to check the fuel level (i know, it's only a schematic, not a detailed where is it diagram)

[Barefootdan]

3 minutes ago, wal280z said:

I'm no expert, but I might suggest a 3-pin connector to go to the fuel pump (then exit the cabin to connect to the fuel pump) rather than drilling an extra large hole for the 6-pin connector. Also to move the gauge away from that harness - you really don't want to have to look behind your shoulder to check the fuel level (i know, it's only a schematic, not a detailed where is it diagram)

The 12 pin connector for the rear sub harness will be inside the cabin, I just grouped these into a sub harness as it will be the only wires headed to the hatch area. The fuel pump and sender is the 4 pin connector which is what will exit the cabin. The gauge next to the pump is actually the sending unit that gives the signal to the gauge. I will rename 🙂

Edited August 31, 2021 by Barefootdan

[Captain Obvious]

21 hours ago, Barefootdan said:

The small yellow wire that activates the starter seems to be low amperage. Why does this need to go through a relay?

I have measured the current into the starter solenoid in the past, and while I can't find my notes, I believe it was approaching 10 Amps. Seven or eight maybe? I do know that it's enough to eventually burn up the insides of the ignition switch:

So if you're planning to use a push-button non-stock starter button, you could use something beefy and maybe get away without a relay. But if you're planning to use the stock ignition switch, I would suggest a relay to cut down on the current to the switch.

I think it's mistake that Datsun didn't do that from the start and if you're already making changes to harnesses and stuff, it would be the perfect time.

[Barefootdan]

That’s perfect information. Thank you @Captain Obvious I’ll be sure to grab a switch rated to at least 10amp. 

[Captain Obvious]

Well honestly, I'd put in a relay anyway even if you find a switch "rated" to 10A.

Why? First because switch ratings are usually lots of garbled confusing corner cases that rarely reflect the real world conditions under which they're used, and second, If installed using a socket, a burned up relay is a lot easier to replace than a burned up switch. And probably cheaper too.

You're making a harness from scratch? I'd just cover my bases and wire in a relay between the switch and the starter solenoid.

10A DC is not something to be trifled with in the switch world. It burns up contacts. And if you're using it to power an inductive load, it burns up contacts even betterer.

[Barefootdan]

5 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Well honestly, I'd put in a relay anyway even if you find a switch "rated" to 10A.

Why? First because switch ratings are usually lots of garbled confusing corner cases that rarely reflect the real world conditions under which they're used, and second, If installed using a socket, a burned up relay is a lot easier to replace than a burned up switch. And probably cheaper too.

You're making a harness from scratch? I'd just cover my bases and wire in a relay between the switch and the starter solenoid.

10A DC is not something to be trifled with in the switch world. It burns up contacts. And if you're using it to power an inductive load, it burns up contacts even betterer.

Fair enough…it’ll be the @Captain Obvious relay, because obviously I should be using one!

It’s not like it’s hard to add another relay when there’s already 5 or 6 new ones going in. 
 

I’ve been reading up on your posts for the heater core swap and added that to my list. I guarantee mine is either leaky or old. I don’t even want to test running coolant through it initially when the engine goes in. I’ll do a block off for the time being. Debating swapping the whole unit for the vintage air setup. That huge arse vacuum bottle in the engine bay haunts me everyday

Edited September 2, 2021 by Barefootdan

[Captain Obvious]

15 minutes ago, Barefootdan said:

Fair enough…it’ll be the @Captain Obvious relay, because obviously I should be using one!

LOL. Well I hope I didn't come off as pushy, but I think it's the right thing to do.   Haha!  

As for that big arse vacuum bottle... I didn't like it either, so I modified all my climate control stuff (except the cable driven heater core valve) over to little electrical servo motors. I think I posted some pics of that somewhere sometime. If you can't find anything, let me know and I'll see what I can dig up.

Edited September 2, 2021 by Captain Obvious
typo

[S30Driver]

I would be interested in what you did with the servo motor conversion Bruce.   Took a quick look, but could not find it.   How long ago did you do that project?

[Barefootdan]

As some of you have seen, I made the splurge to get flat top pistons. One too many margs and a quick look on eBay had a full set with con rods for $150. I'll take that!
They showed up yesterday and look great compared to what is coming out of this car. No pitting at all and way cleaner. I dont think they were hot tanked either since I was able to get a nice amount of crud out from the ringlands. I cleaned up with a scotch pad to get most of the carbon deposit off.

Side by side of the Flat Top (Left) vs the Dished (Right).

I noticed there are different markings on the con rods. Is one better than the other? I did some reading and see they are interchangeable but no real confirmation on strength. I'll probably just use the flat top rods as the wrist pins feel smoother and less work 😄

 

Other updates include fixing my wiring diagram for the relays and switches to run a power switch and then starting my designs for the switch panel. My first draft below would be could out of aluminum, powder coated black, then either laser cut or decals for the lettering and design. I am not too sure on if I want toggle switches or push button switches yet. The start button will definitely be a momentary push button. Then the battery, I will likely use a locking toggle (if I go with all toggles). I dont want to accidentally hit this while changing my radio 😄 a push button wont have that high of a risk of an accidental press. Ign, Fuel, and Fans can all easily be a toggle or push. Lights will be a dual pole ON-OFF-ON toggle with the other option being a rotary selector that is also ON-OFF-ON depending if you turn left or right. Lastly, the radio is a bluetooth controller. No screen because I will always use my phone (sorry analog music listeners!). It allows for everything I need, volume, next, back, play, pause, and an audio jack if I want. It does not have a built in amp so I will go with a small unit behind the dash or seats to provide power. Simple and I think it will blend in better than a modern day head unit.

 

I'll order up a handful of toggles and push button switches in various sizes. I mocked this up to scale, but it is always different seeing it in person. My main worry with toggles is the 'toggle' piece might get too cumbersome in the tight area. We'll see...

 

[Barefootdan]

I know, I know, I should not be working on cosmetics again! But the broken tail light surround just bugged me every time I grabbed a wrench from my tool box...

The right side was in one piece, albeit chipped. The left side though, 4 pieces and missing a good chunk in places!

 

I have never tried plastic repair and well, this probably isnt the best piece to learn on. It practically crumbles when I look at it. But I took a whack at it and I'm content with the results for now...I mean don't forget what the rest of this car looks like 😄

I started off by piecing all what I had together then using masking tape to sort of "bridge" my gaps. There were 2 good chunks missing and then a 3rd that was almost 2" long.

 

I used a plastic bonder/filler material and let it cure over night. I was surprised on how well my bridge worked.

From there I sanded down and refilled where needed. Trying my best to match the lines of the original piece. A quick coat of paint and it is looking 100x better.

Unfortunately, the silver surround also has a good chunk missing but I'll leave it for now. You can clearly see in the reflections where I bonded the two pieces together. I am planning on doing another sand, using a primer, then recoating...but that is for another day. Because this beauty finally came home today 🙂 

 

Yes there's some pitting in cylinders 2 and 4. But its not too deep and I don't mind 😄 I am just glad it is back and we can start this build!