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Barefootdan's 280z Build


Barefootdan

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I went with no RTV. I inspected the original gasket fairly closely and did not see any signs of RTV. Fingers crossed theres no leaks! I started by getting the engine off the stand so I can work on the rear. I was able to torque the flywheel bolts fairly easy with the use of a pry bar on the dowel and flywheel teeth. Unfortuneatly I realized that I forgot to install the back plate! 😤 Well, off with the flywheel again! I think this was actually a blessing in disguise as I noticed I didnt swap the manual transmission specific pilot bushing. I made quick work of the old one with a hammer and chisel. The new one went in nice and smooth. Flywheel goes back and followed by the new clutch and pressure plate. Things are looking good!! 

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I tossed the transmission up on my floor jack for easy alignment. Took probably 4-5 times of fiddling until the shaft lined up nicely. 

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From there it was all excitement! Doing this solo wasnt as hard as I was anticipating. Alot of back and forth to make sure nothing was binding or jammed. Lower an inch, walk around, tilt a few degrees, walk around, etc. Now that I'm looking at this picture...why didnt I put my starter on while it was so easy to access?! 

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I left all the mounts loose and was able to get the driver side in nice and quick. The shape of the mounts is a bit wide spread so trying to finagle the passenger side was a bit of a headache. I ended up removing the mount from the block, placing it in the frame mount, then lining back up to the block. This worked so much better. And with that...shes finally home again! I can't wait to get back out there and hook up the remaining lines, wires, and driveshaft. 

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It’s Alive!!!! 
 

so excited to hear it run again. This was only the second time starting (I didn’t even think it would start on the first crank so I didn’t record it!) 

 

a couple things to note, I need to check the oil pressure gauge is function or if I have 0 pressure. I need to rent a timing light to adjust timing. And there are a couple open vacuum ports still on the manifold for the high idle. 
 

BUT ITS RUNNING!

 

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EDIT: After looking over the spreadsheet I realized I told you wrong. Sorry and you'll see my mistakes if you look at the sheet.

I have that timing light too. After setting the timing I mostly use it for the engine RPMs now. It puts a tach outside the cabin which is very useful when you get to fine tuning. You can also do total advance timing with it. My car has two 17 weights in the distributor so you double that to 34 then run the motor up to to 3,500rpm and the light will read 0 when it's at max advance. I have an excel spreadsheet on my laptop with all the distributors and their info. Thank you for doing that @Walter Moore

I found it. Post #3.

 

Edited by siteunseen
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That’s great thank you @siteunseen

I’ll aim for the cold and warm values to start. Do I need to unplug my vacuum advance to get an accurate reading? 
 

another thought I had while rewatching the video. Any particular reason why it sounds so lopey? Not that I don’t like it, but I want to make sure all is okay! Possibly due to the vacuum leaks? I’ll check spark for each cylinder just to be safe as well. I can’t imagine my ignition timing being within spec either as is. 

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2 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I pull the vacuum advance hose off the distributor and pug it with a golf tee.

From my experience these cars run good with more advance. I have my distributor turned all the way, max advance. One off smarter members, @zKars, even made a plate allowing farther advance.

 

You read my mind for my next question of “what happens if max advance isn’t enough” 😂

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