Barefootdan's 280z Build

[SteveJ]

8 minutes ago, Barefootdan said:

Thanks @SteveJ! 
That leads me to my next question. I want the parking lights to be on anytime my headlights are on. Is parking light the correct term here? I am referring to the low light filament in my turn signals and taillights your mentioned. 
 

Since I have a toggle switch for my headlights, I initially thought I could route a wire from the output of my relay to turn these on. But i am thinking the this will backfeed between the high and low beams and both will be turned on. My next thought was to use a rectifying diode but my research is leading me to voltage drops (not something I want for my lights!). Is my only choice to place an additional, completely separate, switch to run these light? Similar to the OEM setup. 
 

Sorry for all of the electrical questions lately. I am so close to finishing this harness 🙂 I appreciate all the help. 

The stock light switch of a Z will operate the parking lights (Some people call them running lights. I use them interchangeably.) at the first switch position. At the second switch position, both the headlight and parking light circuits are complete. I do have a good stock of headlight switches depending upon the year of your car. Also, I can design a circuit for the 77 and 78 Z to use relays for the headlights. 

IMHO, the best thing you can do for these cars electrically is convert all of the bulbs to LEDs. This includes doing something like using H4 housings with H4 LED bulbs. I was measuring the current draw with the LED headlights I have in my cars, and it's about 3 Amps total. That's about a third of the current that stock headlights draw. The 240Z has LEDs for all of the parking lights (front, back, and sides). The gauge lights and parking lights combined draw about 2.5A. That is a LOT less stress on the stock switches, even if you don't use relays for the circuits.

Is there a reason why you aren't using the stock switch?

[Barefootdan]

That’s a good option to use LED’s. The rears look like an easy swap and the fronts just need a new housing that can take the H4 bulb. Hmmmmm I may just add that to the list! 
 

I don’t have a reason to specifically not use the stock stalk. I was planning to just remove it entirely since I wasn’t using the other functions of that stalk. But now it seems like the better option to just keep it. 

[SteveJ]

All of the lights are fairly easy to change out. I like the Hella H4 housings. Just view the attached video on YouTube (look at the lower left hand side of the image with the link) so you can see the parts link in the description. The Auxito bulbs I used do not need relays, but relays won't hurt.

White LED (license plate and reverse lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4
Amber LED (front side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5
Red LED (rear side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD
Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YFR8TPT
Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BCCYWKF
Green LED (gauge lights - note, you may need to remove the green lens in the gauges) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087JGFK11
Red 1156 LED (rear lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2
 

Please note that I selected these for the best fit/most light that I could get. Match the lens color for all exterior lights.

[Barefootdan]

Wow, thank you again! This is perfect! You just made me a happy man and my wife…well let’s not tell her about this extra upgrade! 😉 

 

[SteveJ]

8 hours ago, Barefootdan said:

Wow, thank you again! This is perfect! You just made me a happy man and my wife…well let’s not tell her about this extra upgrade! 😉 

 

She won't hear it from me...for a price. 😉 

[Barefootdan]

Ah, I remember now why I didnt use the original stalks for headlights! The high beam switch is baked into the turn signals. Pull the lever to activate. I took a wild guess at a 3 way switch and to my amazement, it fits perfectly. I needed power to 1 pole of the switch and always be on for a second pole (Low Beams) and when pressed, it would swap to a third pole (High Beams). The trick was I needed the switch to be a momentary one as well. So that when I release, it went back to my low beams and did swap between the two outputs for each press. This switch accomplished exactly what I needed and the size needed no modifications either:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079D923V9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just be careful when you solder this little bugger. I put too much heat at first and I think I ruined the contacts. With my wires soldered up, I could work with mounting. I originally planned to 3d print a mount similar to my turn signal switch. But when aligning everything up I was shocked at how well the threads matched the rear of the stalk. A quick tap:

and viola!

 

There is a satisfying click when pulled as well so you know when it is on or off. Not mushy at all. I still may 3d print a brace since I have the provisions for a mount and its a super simple shape. But for now I am not worried about this coming loose. 

Now my original stalk works again for turn signals, headlights, and high beams! 

Lastly, a quick model for my center console. I was missing a plate next to my rear defogger and created an adapter for a volt meter. Nice to have since my wiring is all new and I can monitor it at all times. If you recall, I took out my shunt so I wont be using the amp meter. I may look into adding a small USB port here as well, but I dont want to get too cluttered up. Sorry for the dusty console 🙂 

 

I am wrapping up the wiring job and only need a few small pieces left before I can do the final sleeving. My interior is an absolute disaster with wiring bits everywhere. Organized chaos, I swear! 

[Captain Obvious]

I must be missing something, but I'm confused on the plan for your high/low beams...   

Are you saying that you will never latch your high beams on?

And about your voltmeter placement... You aren't missing a plate next to your defroster switch. You're missing your HAZARD switch. right?

[Barefootdan]

I’ve never thought about leaving them on actually! I rarely ever use high beams and if I do it’s mainly for signaling people. If I find I want to leave them on I could always go to a switch that swaps between two outputs 🙂 

 

Thats right! I wasn’t sure what that spot was meant for. 

Edited February 9, 2022 by Barefootdan

[Barefootdan]

Thank you again @SteveJ. I ordered up the LED lights and wow what a difference this makes. I no longer have the flickering issue with my non-blinking lights and I bet my wires are much happier with the lower amp draw. 

[SteveJ]

I put an ammeter on the 240Z after I finished with my gauge bulbs last night. It was 2.5A with just the running lights and 6A with the headlights. Now I need to put lower amperage fuses in the fuse box to better protect the wiring.

[Barefootdan]

Wow! I will be sure to do the same. It didnt even cross my mind to change the fuse down

[SteveJ]

1 minute ago, Barefootdan said:

Wow! I will be sure to do the same. It didnt even cross my mind to change the fuse down

It didn't occur to me either when I did it in the 260Z. Then the positive wire came out of the gauge light for the hazard switch and touched ground. Not only did I lose the running lights, but it melted the connector at the headlight switch some. If I had a lower rating fuse, it would have popped before the damage.

Be sure to check out the thread on my 73. I just went through changing out the gauge lights on it. I even put a link to an LED bulb that will fit under the stock lenses in the gauges.