Thanks Zed. I’m going to chase the threads today and feel them out like you suggested. 

Is this still available


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  On 4/2/2022 at 10:28 PM, stillwellbrenden775 said:

Is this still available


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Sorry, what are you referring to?

I forgot to post an update to my Z since the head fiasco! I was able to get the new gasket installed and torqued all studs/nuts appropriately. I chased my threads and a few had some gunk so it was a worth while job. Zero smoking since! I was so relieved. I did some more research on other platforms and it seems like it is a common issue on the ARP head studs. I assume it is a combination of user error with some dirty threads and what not.

Regardless, times are good and I have been able to finally take the car out for a spin longer than 1 minute! I was having some high temp readings with my radiator setup. Nothing too crazy, but sitting towards the M on my TEMP gauge. Since I am running no shroud, I did a quick DIY with some left over aluminum and foam to get a seal. I am now always running right in the middle temp. I also grabbed a generic overflow container and just waiting for the line to show up in the mail. 

Other than that I have been busy working on some new bumper plates and other misc. fill plates. I originally used a snap in design but the tolerances were so tight that I would occasionally run into broken clips or a loose fit. I switched up the design to be a two piece clamp style. This will give me room for any variances in peoples bumpers while still providing a nice solid mount. My goal for this design was to provide a bolt in solution. I know many people don't have access to a welder or don't want to sand their paint, weld, repaint. While this doesn't provide as flush and clean of a look, it is still better than a gapping hole in my opinion. These are sandable, paintable, and wont warp due to heat. Here is an example for the small bumper holes, but I have created plates for all the rear bumper ones, even the awkward side bumper mount holes, as well as for the side indicators. I hope to start selling these soon!

 

Up next is tackling the bushings and suspension. I am looking to see what people think of my setup:
Koni Yellows from MSA with Eibach Springs. I am hoping I will have a level look when running no bumpers, I read alot about this issue but it is hard to find an exact replication. All of my isolators are shot so now is a good time to run 240z style all around if it will help with leveling the car. I am also considering Vogtland springs.

Wheels I am torn on 15x7 with 225/50r15 or to run a 205/50r15. Smaller tire will be lighter and easier steering but I do like the meatier look of the 225's. 

Full Energy Poly Bushings. But I will run the softer TC rod bushings on the backside. TechnoVersions Diff mount as well. 

 

Some people have problems with Eibach springs.  It seems to vary, almost like the springs are coming from different sources.  The common problem is that the front ends up higher than the back.  Others have no problems.

Dan, I’ve completed the front Koni’s with Ebauch lowering springs. I’m very happy with the height and ride. I kept the stock insulators in the front. Next week will be the backs. I bought 240z insulators and will run Koni’s and Ebauch there also. I’ve finished my Differential refresh and just waiting for my Mustache Bar bushings and parts to get back from powder coating. I think the backs will be easier that the front because you can rock the whole assembly out from the car with taking the control arms off. Good luck!


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Today I spent the afternoon tackling the rear suspension. I’ve been dreading this since I first started my restoration. The spindle pin horror stories prevented me from doing suspension before the engine but we are finally here. 
 

I started off by ordering a set of eibach springs and Koni yellow struts. Topped off with a poly bushing kit, urethane bump stops, and MSA’s street camber strut isolators. All four of mine are toast and it is the same price as going with an oem replacement. 

Here’s what we’re working with. Luckily being and Arizona car, there’s little rust.

Don’t worry, the exhaust is not welded up and just there until I can get it to the shop 🙂 

Thanks to @Av8ferg for the tips in his build log on how to remove the rear end, everything went super smooth. I had the entire assembly out in just about two hours. 
 

 

My diff strap was still in one piece but brittle as hell so I’m glad to go with the technoversions diff mount. I did notice these two straps that are torn, can anyone let me know what these were for? I originally thought it was an exhaust hanger but there is one on both sides and they’re too short for a hanger. 

 

I was going to leave this as is for now. I didn’t want to dig into the spindle pins until the weekend in case things went south. I told myself, okay let’s undo the locking pin only. But it my surprise they came out without a fight. With the spindle pins staring me down ready to fight…I gave in and grabbed my breaker bar. Each pin had one nut that was fairly tough to release and then one that was nice and smooth. I imagine this is due to the direction it was facing on the car. I didn’t have a sledge hammer handy or a puller but I grabbed a standard hammer and started to give it hell. Within 3 blows it started to move! I couldn’t believe it. In the end, both pins came out without a fight. I think the Datsun gods gave me a lucky draw today…or maybe it’s just the Arizona car 😉 

 

lots and lots of cleaning to do but the part I was dreading is passed. Knock on wood my bushings don’t put up a fight as revenge!

Not positive but those straps look like the e-brake cable hangers.

Lots and lots of anti-seize on the pins and housing going back.

I agree with Yarb, the shredded straps are hangers for the e-brake cable. Mine look just like yours. Haven’t found a suitable replacement, but it seems to be the same stuff the muffler hangers are made of.

Thank you both. I’m sure I can fab up a replacement!

Dan, you’ve made some good progress.   I’m about to start reinstall.   I took this pic for you showing the e-brake cable routing through those hangars.   I think you could use Muffler Hangers from AutoZone.  I know they have them.