Barefootdan's 280z Build

[mailnome]

Wow, that’s a big difference! That faded red makes it look like it’s covered in rust in the before pic.


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[Barefootdan]

Ordered up the last (I think) of the parts I need for the build. Got some bearings (both main and rod), rings, belt, coolant hoses, ring compressor and installer, some assembly lube, clutch kit, alternator, output shaft seal, and engine/tranny mounts. 
 

last thing I need to get moving on is dropping off the flywheel to get resurfaced. Unless someone has experience with lightweight flywheels and highly recommends it, I’ll probably stick with the stock one for costs. 
 

The fun part is just around the corner. Can’t wait to start. 

[siteunseen]

You could ask the machinest how much to take some weight off the OE flywheel. The aluminum ones are expensive so a lot of folks lighten the stock one.

Use that assembly lube, mine looked like fake blood but I can't remember the name right off. That really helps the bearings while you rotate the crank putting the pistons in.

Sounds like you've covered all your bases and should be a walk in the park. Take your time though, I get excited and go too fast and end up making mistakes. Have fun!

[Barefootdan]

New clutch came in but looks a bit different than what I pulled out. It is missing the extended key slot. Is this okay or do I need to swap it out? I also attached photos of the flywheel to see what people think. Resurface or can I get by with a scuff and clean? Reading the Tom Monroe manual says if all looks good, just clean and scuff! 
 

Edited August 11, 2021 by Barefootdan

[ETI4K]

If it were me, have it ground. Those hot spots look to be enough to cause premature failure.  I've learned the hard way.

[Barefootdan]

4 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

If it were me, have it ground. Those hot spots look to be enough to cause premature failure.  I've learned the hard way.

Thanks! First time doing any clutch work so was unsure on what to look for. It’s fairly cheap insurance to do it now while it’s already out. 

[Zed Head]

I don't think that grinding will remove heat checking, it's usually deep.  But it might produce a flatter surface.

What Monroe was saying, I think, is if looks good AFTER scuffing/sanding/smoothing then it's good to go.   I've done it and it worked fine.  You can put a piece of sandpaper on a flat hard block and sand the surface.  You'll probably be able to tell if the surface produced is flat and consistent when you're done.

Fun to do even if you decide to have it ground anyway. 

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, Barefootdan said:

It is missing the extended key slot. Is this okay or do I need to swap it out?

I think you're talking about the splined hub.  That's just a design feature of the disc.  No parts to swap there.  You do want to clean the splines on your transmission shaft though and test fit the disc to make sure it slides smoothly on the shaft.  It doesn't move far but it does need to be free.  Use a wire brush.

Check the nose/snout of the transmission front cover also for grooves and wear.  The throwout bearing sleeve rides on it and needs a smooth path too.  If anybody let a bearing seize up in the past the spinning sleeve can do damage.  Some time's the snout/nose breaks off completely.

[Barefootdan]

1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

I think you're talking about the splined hub.  That's just a design feature of the disc.  No parts to swap there.  You do want to clean the splines on your transmission shaft though and test fit the disc to make sure it slides smoothly on the shaft.  It doesn't move far but it does need to be free.  Use a wire brush.

Check the nose/snout of the transmission front cover also for grooves and wear.  The throwout bearing sleeve rides on it and needs a smooth path too.  If anybody let a bearing seize up in the past the spinning sleeve can do damage.  Some time's the snout/nose breaks off completely.

That’s exactly what I was referring too! Awesome to hear it’s good to go. Thanks for the tip about the front cover, I’ll be sure to take a look. 

[ETI4K]

27 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I don't think that grinding will remove heat checking, it's usually deep.  But it might produce a flatter surface.

Yep, the hot spots are hard to cut on a lathe.  The cutting tool has to dig in hard to cut the hardened areas and then readily cuts into the softer areas.  Grinding takes it all down evenly in a very controlled manner.  A clutch disc will never conform to the distorted surface of a flywheel and pressure plate with those raised hot spots,  so the disc will rapidly wear until its new shape conforms to the pressure plate and flywheel.  Not worth it in my mind to skip the flywheel flattening process

[Zed Head]

2 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

those raised hot spots

This is the question that sanding will answer.  Sand it, look at it, make a decision.

[ETI4K]

6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

This is the question that sanding will answer.  Sand it, look at it, make a decision.

I would absolutely try sanding it. Always in favor of a $5 solution that works.

Not sure why I wrote that last post to sound like not to - probably foggy headed and way past my bedtime.