On 4/11/2021 at 2:58 PM, AK260 said:

To add my two cents: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE my Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch! I think they do a great package on eBay but just check you are getting the right one for your car ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-06029-w-FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-for-70-75-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-2-4L-2-6L-/324528069103?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286


And I have to echo the sentiments - replace all the bits that wear out and you’ve done it once!! Having said that, I didn’t replace my slave cylinder as I preferred the original part to the new one I had bought! Somehow it felt better built.

We’re no longer allowed to say “salve” cyl are we? What is the new correct phrase?

thats a lot of money..  how will this new upgraded flywheel and clutch affect the car? i assumed improved performance somehow or is it longer lifespan?

thats a lot of money..  how will this new upgraded flywheel and clutch affect the car? i assumed improved performance somehow or is it longer lifespan?

Not sure about how much longer or better as I only do about 1000 miles a year!

But the responsiveness of the engine and its rev happiness are wonderful over stock! And that’s without loosing drivability.

The other thing I like about the fidanza is that on your next clutch replacement, you can just screw in a new flywheel face - no need to resurface.

Not sure if you've ridden dirt bikes in the past but that's my way to compare. A 2 cycle would be the aluminum flywheel and a 4 stroke would be OEM flyweel.

I love the quick rev of the lightened flywheel. Had one on my boat too and it was great.

Clutch kits aren't that pricing and it's worth the peace of mind - I can't imagine putting everything back in the car only to discover that something wasn't right.  I'm in the process of a major rebuild on my 240, replaced everything including the pilot bushing.  This bushing is sometimes overlooked because it can be tough to get out.  You'll know it's bad by the nasty squeal, but then it's too late.   Here's a tip - get a 5/8 bolt or piece of bar stock, one wrap of black electrical tape to make it snug, fill the hole with grease and hit the bolt head sharply - the hydraulic pressure pops out the bushing.  Here's a photo, better than an explanation.  I hit it about 6 times with a heavy mallet, no need to be gentle.

Make sure your clutch kit is compatible with your clutch collar! You'll end up being like me when I didn't check and had to take that transmission off several times.  

 

 On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

2 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

That's a Wonderful story.

Just my $.02, but I really like the Centerforce clutch and pressure plate.

Put one in my '76 about 20 years ago. After many, many hard launches at Autocross events, it's still going strong!

I have one in my '73 also, but it's only been in for 4 years. I really like the pedal feel. Not too stiff, not too light.

Edited April 30, 20213 yr by crayZlair
added more for clarity

All. sorry for the long absence. I just got my car back from the painter and my engine should be back in the next 1-2 weeks from the machine shop. In meantime i have my transmission and the exedy kit. Aside from the bearing do i need to wait on 

the engine to start replacing things. The bearing looks good and moves great...i am reluctant to replace it as i will likely mess it up

When you have a chance, test fit the 3 stepped dowel pins in the flywheel and let me know if there are any issues with the fit.

Take a look at the clutch ball pivot and check it for excessive wear.  A light coating of lube on the ball when you put the fork back.

Car looks great!!

is this what you are referring to? they fit pretty good. there was some glue included i assume once you figure out which holes to use you permanently afix the dowels.

wonder why it says to get acetone and remove the green?

thanks

1 hour ago, Wally said:

The bearing looks good and moves great...i am reluctant to replace it as i will likely mess it up

The "bearing" is actually the sleeve and a bearing.  Two pieces.  If you didn't get a tall pressure plate in your kit then the sleeve will not work right.  You'll have to remove the transmission to fix it.

The bearing is pressed in to the sleeve.  If the bearing is worn or dry you will regret not replacing it.