LOL.

My Barracuda was in the shop, so I was in a rented Stingray. And it was overheating. So I pulled into a Shell station.....

11 hours ago, rogerwilcos said:

So far all I have noticed is a bunch of sludge around the water pump. It looks black though....like dirt. 

That isn’t coolant. It is oil that has escaped from the crank seal has gotten dirt on it.

Edited April 27, 20213 yr by Racer X

Has anyone ever used the aftermarket radiators that are on ebay? The all aluminum ones? I am wanting to overhaul the cooling system but the main dealers don't have radiators right now. Everything is out of stock 

On 4/28/2021 at 2:23 PM, rogerwilcos said:

Has anyone ever used the aftermarket radiators that are on ebay? The all aluminum ones? I am wanting to overhaul the cooling system but the main dealers don't have radiators right now. Everything is out of stock 

I would try Motorsport Auto.

Edited April 30, 20213 yr by Racer X

I’ve heard good things about the Mishimoto ones, also@Jonbill has had good experience with this one ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Champion-Cooling-4-Row-All-Aluminum-Radiator-MC110-240Z-260Z-/152034797300?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286


However, if you want to keep your engine bay looking “classic” I would go with Mr Racer X’s advice and consider the 3 row ones from MSA ...

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic15d/16-7001

Don’t forget there are small variations in the outlet hose arrangement between S30 cars, so make sure you get the correct one for yours.

Providing an update and asking for more help. I am working on replacing the radiator and water pump as well as the hoses....just to make sure everything is good there. In the picture below you can see there is a plate circled (not sure what else to call it). It has one screw that is different than the others and I left it backed out a little. That screw doesn't seem to fit super tight and when I take it out there is oil on it and also it seemed to have oil seeping around it. I cleaned off the area as best I could but I think it may be the source of the leak. Is there a gasket for behind that piece? It's right where the pulley for the power steering belt mounts. Thanks for the help. 

Also....how much coolant should the entire system hold. When I drained the radiator and caught what came out of the hoses and power steering pump it was a little less than 2 gallons of fluid. I'll check the FSM but thought someone may know off the top of their head. 

 

 

 

8 minutes ago, rogerwilcos said:

Providing an update and asking for more help. I am working on replacing the radiator and water pump as well as the hoses....just to make sure everything is good there. In the picture below you can see there is a plate circled (not sure what else to call it). It has one screw that is different than the others and I left it backed out a little. That screw doesn't seem to fit super tight and when I take it out there is oil on it and also it seemed to have oil seeping around it. I cleaned off the area as best I could but I think it may be the source of the leak. Is there a gasket for behind that piece? It's right where the pulley for the power steering belt mounts. Thanks for the help. 

Those holes are all blind on the heads I have looked at here, so oil shouldn't be coming out through the threads. It is most likely the threads are stripped, or nearly stripped, and the bolt won't tighten up. (The head being different isn't really an issue, it is the thread diameter and pitch, and grip length of the fastener that is important, and a lot of that size bolt tend to have the phillips as well as a hex)

Take the cover off, clean the surfaces, check the threads (I always run a bottoming tap to clean them up, then squirt some carb cleaner and blow it out with air. Repair the threads if that hole is stripped.

If you don't have a gasket, you cam make one with a phone book cover. Use a thin film of grey RTV on both sides, or forego the gaskety and use RTV (a thin film, hand tighten the screws, with a day or so for it to cure then snug to torque.

 

 

6 minutes ago, rogerwilcos said:

Also....how much coolant should the entire system hold. When I drained the radiator and caught what came out of the hoses and power steering pump it was a little less than 2 gallons of fluid. I'll check the FSM but thought someone may know off the top of their head. 

 

 

 

About 2 gallons is right.

I took it off and it sure appears that it is the source of the oil leak. I don't think it's necessarily a failed gasket, but more that the bolt I pointed out has come loose and isn't holding the plate down. I will clean it up and replace the gasket (and bolt) and I think we will be good to go. 

On 4/28/2021 at 11:23 PM, rogerwilcos said:

Has anyone ever used the aftermarket radiators that are on ebay? The all aluminum ones? I am wanting to overhaul the cooling system

A short word to aluminium radiators and the people who are selling them.. they say it works better than the original.. i doubt that!!.. the original is made of copper and is a much better heat-conductor then aluminum (as you call it 😉 ) 

One can not expect a 200 dollar aluminum radiator is as good as the original copper one..  I would always prefer the old second hand copper radiator above the alu junk  (most are..) radiators that are sold cheap..

My own 240z has a copper one.. in there for more than 22 years.. (posible is it the orig. from 1971.. i don't know..)  but if it's gonna leak i have a new one in stock.. or i would repair the old one with a new core im sure!

You might try water-soluble UV dye. I've used similar dyes in oils and AC leak tracing.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/uv-light-and-accessories/autopro-antifreeze-coolant-leak-detector-uv-dye-8-oz/835773_0_0

Edited May 10, 20213 yr by Jeff Berk