Interesting.  JE's $150 each price has to be full list.  No idea what dealer pricing is to TEP, but list + $250 seems high.  Maybe they'll be anointed.

Another btw, Isky will regrind for $160 IIRC.

Distributor Delete

So I am using a 2004 Jeep 4.0 "cam synchronizer".

It's amazing that the housing is a perfect fit in the Z's distributor base.  To make it work with everything else, I removed the gear, cut off the shaft, made a press-fit bushing, into which I milled an offset slot, then pressed it onto the shaft and drilled and cross-pinned it.  After that, I needed a way to lock down the body of the sensor after getting the timing set, so I made a clamp that works really well.  Not sure if I will powdercoat it or have it anodized.  The black screw will be replaced with something stainless.

 

Still have to polish up the cam synchronizer body and distributor base.

 

Not bad.  Here's more details on how to do it.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/

I think I read that one about a year ago and that helped me decide to use that Jeep CAS.  Completely forgot about it when I started the mods, so I started with the distributor, oil pump, and drive spindle installed in the loose timing cover for dims.  Being able to trial fit and test for clearances and spindle freeplay was especially valuable.

 

An interesting problem with gas filler lid.

My lid never sat well against the body.  It looks as if someone walked into it when it was open and created a gap between the lid and hinge.  The gap is sprung, so when you press on it, it closes right up, but won't stay that way.  Also, there is some smoodge in the gap - I'm not sure if it is a factory-applied sealant or a PO repair.  The whole thing has always bothered me, so now is the time to fix it.

 

I drilled out the spot welds to separate the assy into three parts.  Nice bit of hidden rust there.

 

This is where I am conflicted.  The rectangular piece is very thin and provides very little structural support to the lid.  I restored its shape to properly nest with the lid - NP.  My concern is based on how easy it was to manipulate that piece of steel.  I can easily see it being deformed again, right after I've painted it 😭

Besides more hidden rust, this sure looks like an adhesive (epoxy) that was applied by someone along the way, but the application of a suitable adhesive seems like a good idea for two reasons -  it will provide additional structural support and could seal the gap against more hidden rust.

I could easily pop a hole through the hinge and rectangular plate, and plug weld the three parts together which would solve the structural issue.  But I hate pinching steel together because of the propensity for rusting - although I suppose with some weld-thru zinc primer it would survive my lifetime, so I'll get over it. 

Comments and suggestions always welcome!

 

I had the same issue on mine. It had the same goop between the pieces. Unfortunately,  I dont remember exactly how I resealed it. I know I rewelded it but I don't remember if I epoxied it too

I forgot to mention the conflict with adhesive and welding heat.  If I weld it first, I can't get epoxy into the gap.  If I epoxy it first, I can't weld it.

I'm not sure why they used the rectangular piece in the first place, unless it was to keep the spot-weld heat low to minimize deformation on the outside of the lid.  At this point, I am considering not reusing it.

Edited October 24, 20213 yr by ETI4K

39 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

I forgot to mention the conflict with adhesive and welding heat.  If I weld it first, I can't get epoxy into the gap.  If I epoxy it first, I can't weld it.

I'm not sure why they used the rectangular piece in the first place, unless it was to keep the spot-weld heat low to minimize deformation on the outside of the lid.  At this point, I am considering not reusing it.

You can epoxy it, just don't get it too close the spot weld cut outs, then do a small weld and cool quickly with compressed air, jump to the other side and repeat. Go slowly with time in betwwen welds and you shouldn't build up too much heat.

Just clean it ( or blast if you have ) then a little zink weld trhough primer. Then clamp it together and spot weld it. Should work.

Another option is just look for another gas cap lid....

At this point, I think I will reuse the rectangular piece if no other reason than to help align the hinge to the lid.  However, I will drill two new holes through the hinge and plate in the middle of the plate, apply some zinc weld-through, and plug weld to the lid.  I'll use the TIG machine to keep the heat as low as I can get away with and deal with the need to do a bit of bodywork on the lid exterior.  No epoxy.

There, another one done of only 13,000 more decisions. 👍

Next up, a new IAC valve and body.

I will be using a stepper-type IAC valve from a GM motor to control idle speed.  The problem is it also means I need an air body for the valve to mount to.  I spent a long time trying to find something off-the-shelf and never found anything I liked very well, so I decided to make one.  It's a bit complicated, but that's what I do best - make things more difficult than they have to be, but I have a blast doing it.

The Concept

It'll be located on the underside of the intake, to stay out of view.  When I was shaving the intake, I bored a hole, made the bung and welded it in as I couldn't find one OTS with a wide enough flat to match the Seal diameter. 

I sent out the parts to be anodized.  Found a place in Lynchburg that did a flawless job - Industrial Plating Corp.  The guy who ran the shop (Brian) did the five parts plus two others that were zinc/clear for "lunch money" - $20.  A deal AFAIC.

 

The Realization

The huge bung

 

Assembled air body

 

The pintle seat

 

I have surface finish issues with these parts - they're okay but far from great.  I recently acquired some decent carbide inserts to replace the Chineseum ones I used on this.  What a difference. Oh well, another thing learned.

The assembly seals well as best I can bench test it.  Maybe this coming year I'll get to find out for real. 🤞

There is also this one from diyautotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/

I used this on a previous Z and it worked well, it also uses your Gm unit.