Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

1978 stock alternator wiring


neutrino

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

I know I’m kind of bumping a dead thread here but I finally got around to trying with starting fluid. When the fluid is used, the car does turn over, but immediately sputters and returns to just cranking. The fuel pressure gauge is showing fuel in the line and I know the car is getting spark because it is able to turn over for a split second. I’m kind of stumped here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turn over and crank mean the same thing.  You probably mean "fire" or start, not turn over.  Crank/turn over > fire/start > run.

How long does it sputter?  A split second?  What happens if you squirt a bunch of fluid in?

What is the actual fuel pressure number?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Turn over and crank mean the same thing.  You probably mean "fire" or start, not turn over.  Crank/turn over > fire/start > run.

How long does it sputter?  A split second?  What happens if you squirt a bunch of fluid in?

What is the actual fuel pressure number?

 

 

The pressure gauge reads about 35 psi whether the car is on or off, and with fluid the car fires for a moment and then sputters for about the same time before returning to just cranking. Spraying more fluid makes it fire longer. If there’s anyone in the Boulder area who can figure it out that would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a few details missing.  If you KNOW you have fuel and spark, then the most likely problem area would be whether they are occurring at the correct time - timing.  Also, the fuel rail may show pressure, but that doesn't mean the injectors are supplying the cylinders with it.  You need to confirm these things.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have confirmed spark and ignition timing with the starting fluid.  Now you need to find out why the injectors aren't opening.  Could be the power supply, could be the signal from the coil negative terminal, could be the ECU.  Get a meter and start probing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 565 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.