Headlight switch broken? Headlights wont come on.

[dylancorrea1]

The white with red comes from a fusible link.  The red wire feeds the fuse box.  That's a link and two fuses that could be blown.
Meter, meter, meter, test light....  check, check, check, know.

Got my multi meter IS THERE A FASTER WAY TO COMMUNICATE


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[dylancorrea1]

The white with red comes from a fusible link.  The red wire feeds the fuse box.  That's a link and two fuses that could be blown.
Meter, meter, meter, test light....  check, check, check, know.

White cable still reads volts -12


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[dylancorrea1]

The white with red comes from a fusible link.  The red wire feeds the fuse box.  That's a link and two fuses that could be blown.
Meter, meter, meter, test light....  check, check, check, know.

All fusible links read above 12v so 12.34-12.40


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[cgsheen1]

The dimmer switch just supplies a ground to the headlight circuit. Looking at those three wires (in your first picture above) that came loose out of the broken switch, the Black is the ground, The Red/White is the High Beam ground (I think) and the Red/Yellow is the Low Beam ground.  The switch just changes which wire gets connected to the Black ground wire.

To get by, you could just connect the black wire with the Red/Yellow (If that gives you high beams when you switch the lights on, I was wrong - so, just connect the Black to the Red/White instead). Then you'll have Low Beams for driving while you find a replacement for the broken switch.

The Ground is always connected to one or the other depending on the position of the switch so you don't need to worry about leaving the wires connected. Power to the headlights comes from the headlamp switch on the right of the steering column.

[dylancorrea1]

The dimmer switch just supplies a ground to the headlight circuit. Looking at those three wires (in your first picture above) that came loose out of the broken switch, the Black is the ground, The Red/White is the High Beam ground (I think) and the Red/Yellow is the Low Beam ground.  The switch just changes which wire gets connected to the Black ground wire.
To get by, you could just connect the black wire with the Red/Yellow (If that gives you high beams when you switch the lights on, I was wrong - so, just connect the Black to the Red/White instead). Then you'll have Low Beams for driving while you find a replacement for the broken switch.
The Ground is always connected to one or the other depending on the position of the switch so you don't need to worry about leaving the wires connected. Power to the headlights comes from the headlamp switch on the right of the steering column.

That was my plan in the first place to solder the ground and high beam, since a video showed they are always touching the switch just choses which ones touch. Thank you I will do that for now till I find a switch of some sort.


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[cgsheen1]

Why would you connect the High Beam? Just to wizz off everyone in town as you drive your Z? (I mean, sealed beam headlights do suck, but still...) All you need is Low Beam for now...

[dylancorrea1]

Why would you connect the High Beam? Just to wizz off everyone in town as you drive your Z? (I mean, sealed beam headlights do suck, but still...) All you need is Low Beam for now...

Im young but also a little blind even with glasses, ill keep the low beams on for now till figure a switch solution.


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[Zed Head]

5 hours ago, dylancorrea1 said:

 

It appears my low beam and high beam switch is broken, is there a quick fix to this to have either a constant high beam or low beam.

 

Sorry dylancorrea, I was right with my first picture but got distracted by the parts you were holding in your hand.  My mistake.  I had you on a wild goose chase. 

cgsheen1 is right.  Here is that first drawing that I should have left in.  Run a switch to ground for the Red with Black stripe (RB) and you have low beam.  Do the same for Red with White stripe (RW) and you have high beam.  "E" is ground.

The colors I'm talking about are from the main harness.  Always good to use the diagram, because Nissan used different colors on the sub-harnesses.

Sorry about that.

 

Edited May 28, 2021 by Zed Head

[dylancorrea1]

Sorry dylancorrea, I was right with my first picture but got distracted by the parts you were holding in your hand.  My mistake.  I had you on a wild goose chase. 
cgsheen1 is right.  Here is that first drawing that I should have left in.  Run a switch to ground for the Red with Black stripe and you have low beam.  Do the same for Red with White stripe and you have high beam.  "E" is ground.
The colors I'm talking about are from the main harness.  Always good to use the diagram, because Nissan used different colors on the sub-harnesses.
Sorry about that.

 

Thank you, I will do this tomorrow my car is pretty close to being on the road, I just need to fine tune things like this, I appreciate the help from both of you.


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[Zed Head]

I should add that if you're trying to figure out the wiring diagrams and thinking "man, this is really difficult" you're not alone.  My eyeballs started getting sore trying to follow the various traces around the page, and jumping across the connection points.  But if you take the time and put the effort in you'll find that it gets easier and you can solve a lot of your problems just by studying the drawings.  For what it's worth.

[dylancorrea1]

I should add that if you're trying to figure out the wiring diagrams and thinking "man, this is really difficult" you're not alone.  My eyeballs started getting sore trying to follow the various traces around the page, and jumping across the connection points.  But if you take the time and put the effort in you'll find that it gets easier and you can solve a lot of your problems just by studying the drawings.  For what it's worth.

They’ve gotten a bit easier to understand, but I still struggle. Im glad im not alone, Im going to college to be a electrical engineer just to be able to fully
work on my car.


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[Captain Obvious]

41 minutes ago, dylancorrea1 said:

 Im going to college to be a electrical engineer just to be able to fully work on my car.

Won't work. You'll be able to calculus the living crap out of it, but the car just doesn't respond to Fourier transforms, Laplace Transforms, OR diffy Q.