Decided to rebuild the front and rear suspension on my 73 Z.  Decided to splurge and buy the Koni Yellows, and Eibach progressive springs.  Going mostly rubber bushings instead of poly since it's mainly for pleasure driving.  Going to tackle the front first.

I wasn't planning on dropping the subframe, but couldn't remove the lower control arm bolts without hitting the rack.  Made a couple metal bars and used the anti-sway bar bracket bolt holes to support a piece of wood, which held the engine up resting on the oil pump.  Easier than dragging out my engine lift.

 

Sand blasted the subframe and repainted.  I used poly bushings for the rack mounts.

To remove the LCA bushings I drilled a couple holes through the rubber, then used a coping saw to saw around the rubber to remove.  Then cut inside of the outer bushing steel with a hacksaw as suggested in other threads.  To remove and install new bushings I used a 35 mm deep socket on the bottom, and a 1" socket on the top.  The 35 mm seems to support the welded in A-arm bushing good to support it without deforming the LCA.

When I dropped the Koni's into the strut housing, I had a 6 mm gap instead the required 1-4 mm.  Called MSA and they quickly shipped a set of the gland nuts with the relief cut, which got it down to 3 mm.  I guess Nissan had a few different suppliers for the strut housings, which made them slightly different.

Here's the only way I could figure out how to hold the strut while torquing the gland nuts.  Used an aluminum block with just enough pressure to keep it from turning.  

Here's the assembled pair ready to go.

Cleaned up the wheel wells with Simple Green and a brush.  Looks pretty good without the dirt and grime.  New ball joints and tie rod ends too.

Ken

Edited May 30, 20213 yr by sfm6s524
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Beautiful,  you can also install the wheel/tire to the strut, lay the wheel on the ground and stand on it while tightening the gland nut.  Looks like a nice rust free car.

Looks Great! I would also replace all the rubber brake lines while you have the suspension apart. It really becomes a real pain in the butt when you put in all the work and re bleed the brake lines just to find a cracked hose. Been there once and will never make that mistake again

Yep, definitely going to order brake stuff.

I had one knuckle arm bolt and threaded hole that was boogered up a bit, not too bad.  Didn't want to use a fast cutting tap and die and maybe make it worse, so I ordered this Lang Rethreader Kit off of Amazon, which surprisingly is made in the USA. 🇺🇸   It worked great!  Highly recommended to chase threads.  Used some anti-seize and reassembled.

I was almost done plating the front end parts, and the power supply to my Caswell system gave out.  Knew I should have coughed up some $ for the Amazon warranty!  

Maybe I should just pay someone to have it done.   🤔

Edited June 7, 20213 yr by sfm6s524

Your results look very good!

You might consider doing the subframe LCA pivot mod while it's apart.  Since you are lowering the car with springs, you might have some undesirable bump steer.  You can move the pivot holes up 3/4" and out 1/4".  It's not hard to do once the subframe is out.  Just pop off the doubler washers (I used an air chisel) and then mark the holes and drill them.  Tack weld the doublers back into place in the new locations.

You might consider doing the subframe LCA pivot mod while it's apart.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, once I got it bolted back into place, of course. I searched the site for more DIY info, with pictures, but no luck. I could go off your description, but pictures would be nice. Got a link?

Thanks


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1 minute ago, sfm6s524 said:

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, once I got it bolted back into place, of course. I searched the site for more DIY info, with pictures, but no luck. I could go off your description, but pictures would be nice. Got a link?

Thanks


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I might have some pics of when I did one of my cars.  That was several laptops ago though, so I'm not sure where they might be.  I'll look.

I found this post: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48862-bump-steer-spacers-needed-for-1-drop/?do=findComment&comment=444347

I think I’ll hunt around for another subframe to modify. And I’d like to see what the camber comes out to with the new springs is before I start drilling holes to increase it. Anyone using the MSA bump steer spacers? I’m guessing the cheaper fixes aren’t a perfect solution, but maybe enough to make the bump steer less annoying.


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Waiting for some front brake parts to come in, moved to funnest part on the rear, the spindle pins.   Spent about an hour to remove just one pin using what I had laying around.  

Started with a 13/16" wrench around the pin OD and some washers to break it loose and start moving the pin in the right direction.  Definitely use thread anti seize on the threads.

Scrounged whatever I had, washers, old throwout bearings, wrenches, to build the spacing needed to pull the pin about an 1/8" at a time.  Even used an old Mustang pitman arm as a spacer.  Eventually the pin started spinning after travelled about 1.25", then I used a drift to pound in out the rest of the way.

 

I've got one more to go, hopefully as easy as this one.   From what I've read about these, I think I got lucky. 

Edited June 10, 20213 yr by sfm6s524

Run out and play the Lotto!!😂😂