Another Suspension Rebuild

[heyitsrama]

what do you have planned for the half shafts? 👀

[KenFirch]

what do you have planned for the half shafts? [emoji102]

I was thinking of just changing the u-joints and boots. Hopefully the shafts will still be balanced afterwards. I did stamp the flanges to get it back in the same orientation.
CV axles would be great, but pricey.
Open to $uggestions….[emoji848]


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[KenFirch]

(Deleted duplicate post)

[heyitsrama]

I attempted to change my u-joints out and messed up the balance so bad on a set of half-shafts that they are pretty much trash.... Its uneconomical to replace the ujoints i used with OEM ones, and get them balanced. To get them balanced in the Bay Area I was quoted at $100 per shaft. I was able to find someone selling a complete suspension setup for $100, included the rear end, and used the shafts from there...

Maybe just clean them and paint?

[Mark Maras]

I fought a balance problem in one of the three shafts some years back. Ultimately, I found that the half shafts don't spin fast enough to create a vibration. My vibration was in the prop shaft. It spins 3 - 4 time faster than the half shafts.

[Zed Head]

Used Nissan u-joints are often tighter than new aftermarket u-joints.  "New" does not always mean better.

[AK260]

After seeing that rubber tension rod bushing split, even before driving the car, I ordered and installed the plastic/aluminum bearing kit and rubber bushings. Seems to be be a lot better design, and hopefully firm up the suspension and steering response.

I put these on mine and it sorted all kinds of steering issues under braking - especially the judder and wonder. It introduced zero discernible harshness. You won’t look back.

[mailnome]

Who makes that tension rod bushing kit?


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[KenFirch]

Who makes that tension rod bushing kit?


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https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190


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[mailnome]

Awesome, thanks!

Somehow I missed that one.


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[KenFirch]

Okay, after checking the u-joints in the half shafts, I didn't feel any sloppiness, so I'm going to just leave them. They're marked NSK/Torrington/83 (year?)/Koyo/KC1819D, and they're probably better quality than what's available out there now.  I think new kits have different thickness c-clips to get joints centered precisely, which I'm not setup to do (balancing).   I ordered new Timken bearings (NSK) for my rear axles and was kind of disappointed in how they felt out the box.  They just didn't feel as smooth as I expected, and after cleaning up the old Nachi bearings, the new ones didn't feel that much better, but I installed the new ones anyway.  I talked to a friend of mine who vintage races a 240Z, I he's had bad luck with new bearings also, and says he usually tries to use old ones.

So, I'll be replacing the inner and out arm bushings with new rubber ones, and pivot pins.  Mustache bar bushings look great, so I don't want go through the hassle of replacing them, and the new ones are poly anyway.  Installing a TechnoVersions differential mount also.  Might take the differential to my go to my diff guy and see what he thinks of how it "feels," maybe replace the side seals.  Clean everything up and put back together.

[Zed Head]

38 minutes ago, sfm6s524 said:

after checking the u-joints in the half shafts, I didn't feel any sloppiness, so I'm going to just leave them

Pop the little screw out, put a Zerk fitting in and grease them up.  They'll probably last another 50,000 miles.